paint/laquer for barrels

[Martin27]

Hi,
do you have some photos of the barrels painted by Rogers paint?
Roger, is it possible to send the paint?
Thanks,
Martin

[TedParkin]

😀 😀 Me too Mike!! I just rubbed down the old paint to a smooth finish and carefully applied Rogers spay paint. A great mottled appearance resulted. Exactly the effect I wanted re looking slightly used, Ted 😀 😀

[chris wastell]

I polished/ burnished the block up quite well but I have to say it wasn’t really shiny. The paint gave quite a good finish with a shade that I like but it doesn’t look like, what I think, the original Scott finish does. It certainly doesn’t have that deep translucent finish. I stress that these are only my personal experiences with it.
Chris

[BRIAN MARSHALL]

The HMG glass lacquer can give a lovely deep translucent finish, but it takes several coats well thinned down to achieve it, and you can’t do that with an aerosol rattle can as the paint in them has too much pigment in it, and by the time that you have got a good thick layer built up you have lost the translucent effect ! I have sprayed it thinned down with ordinary premium grade cellulose thinners, allowing an hour or so between coats, and in warm conditions, with good results. Paint finishes will always fail first on sharp edges, and on a Scott barrel that means the top edge where either the water-dome or the cylinder head sits, not helped by slight seepage of glycol antifreeze through the gasket joint. I therefore do NOT mask off the top flange on a blind-head barrel. This seems to help the life of the finish.
I have had nickel plated barrels through my hands on a couple of occasions, and both were blind-head barrels. I’ve never seen a detachable-head barrel with original plating.
Brian

[fernyhough]

Sorry those who requested photo of lacquered barrels, can’t for the life of me see how to attach pics

[Russell]

As HMG no longer produce the magenta glass lacquer, and I don’t want to have to take the barrel off again to spray it, can anyone recommend an alternative brush on finish to use ?

[BRIAN MARSHALL]

Try a good quality clear yacht varnish, to which you add a little Windsor and Newtons “Alizarin Crimson” artist’s oil paint. Experiment on a piece of polished steel sheet first. You must allow a few days between coats or the finish will wrinkle.

[Russell]

Is yacht varnish up to the high temperatures ?

[BRIAN MARSHALL]

Yes it seems to be up to the job. I can remember magazine adverts for yacht varnish depicting boiling water being poured over it. Good polyurethane yacht varnish such as the “International” make, is not cheap, so use the rest of the tin on the front door….

[Russell]

Thanks I’ll try that

[Bob Mather]

HI,
As my cylinder block looked a bit grotty, I decided to remove and recoat it. Years ago we used to polish the block and use varnish tinted with Newtons artists oil paint, the more coats you applied the stronger the colour. I decided to do this as I can’t get aerosol from Roger here in Australia, so off to the paint shop for varnish and telling them what I intended to do. They warned me modern varnish is not as good as the old stuff and didn’t think it would stand the constant heat. My block runs at a maximum of about 93 degrees C. I decided to give it a try anyway. They were right, it soon deteriorated so I looked around for a paint to stand the heat and found KBS Coatings motor coater engine enamel in Fire Red. It will stand up to 240 degrees C, has a high gloss and the brush marks flow out as you are painting it. I bought the paint plus thinners and Rustblast to form a good base. After removal the cylinders were carefully degreased ( most important ) and then not touched. It is not translucent but to me looks OK. It has only been on just over three years and still looks as good as when I applied it.
Regards,
Bob Mather.

[Russell]

Finished repainting, and they look good, lets see how they cope with the heat when I get her back together.
[attachment=0:3v6k9pmf]Scott Barrels.jpg[/attachment:3v6k9pmf]

[Martin27]

I used standard paint from the shop, some modern acrylic car paint, darkest red they had mixed with transparent laquer (1:2). I made few layers until I was satisfied. They told me in the shop it should be Ok until about 150°C, so I will see how it holds when the bike will be finished. If someone would be interested, I can check the brand and the code of the red paint.
Martin

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