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  • in reply to: Pilgrim setting question #35270
    Glyn Chambers
    Participant

    Olaf,the engine needs to be running.what you are looking for is the lowest regular drip from the little beaks that you can get.Ideal would be 5 or 6 “Spits” to a drip on each one.Use a modern 2 stoke oil (Synthetic)

    Good luck           Potty

    in reply to: Attaching sidecar #35227
    Glyn Chambers
    Participant

    Martin, send me a short email (details in Yowl) so I can reply to it.          POTTY

    in reply to: Attaching sidecar #35222
    Glyn Chambers
    Participant

    Martin,

    What I forgot to say is what gearbox have you got,the ultra close is usless for most sidecar use,the Med/Close is OK but the  late wide ratio the  best.the “Vintage” Wide  gives you a not very good 2nd gear.            ——  POTTY.

     

    in reply to: Attaching sidecar #35219
    Glyn Chambers
    Participant

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

    Martin,

    Yes the leanout can be shared between the bike & the sidecar  or just the bike,the more leanout you have makes the steering easier.

    The gearing depends on the load to be carried  & if a 500 or 600cc engines are used & the load to be carried  & what hills  are likely.

    I used    19 or 20 tooth sprockets  on both types of engines,a 17 is far to low for nomal use.

    Good Luck

    POTTY.

     

     

     

     

     

    in reply to: Attaching sidecar #35214
    Glyn Chambers
    Participant

    Martin, I have done thousands of miles over the last 60 years with a sidecar on a flyer or rep. you can not ‘. get it  perfect, however aim to get the sidecar axle just in front of  the bike one  2″ max.Toe in  about 1″, lean out 1″ to 2″  Side car frame level to ground fore and aft.

    good luck      POTTY.

    in reply to: Veteran Pistons #35182
    Glyn Chambers
    Participant

    Will, I think the most important thing to do & avoid “blowback” is to provide a splitter in the exhaust at the cylinder and exhaust stub to stop flames “tracking” from one cylinder into the other as there is a period when the pistons allow this as they allow the  exhaust ports to be open at the same time.

    I did this to my veteran and it utterly transformed it.Transfer gauzes might be able to be done away with.(I don’t know I never  did this but the gauzes   never required cleaning out ).

    Good Luck    “Potty”

    in reply to: Radiator repairs #35169
    Glyn Chambers
    Participant

    Mark, yes there is several things you can do.If the leak is in a tube carve out a couple of small bits  of cork   & fit either end of the leaking tube.Better still is the use of “Radiator Glue” available at any good plumper suplier, an “Rtv” which will stop leaks even on hot running water.I kept a tube in the tool kit on my Scott  and it was very handy for  all sorts of road side repairs such as blown door or transfer port gaskets.

    Good luck    “Potty”

Viewing 7 posts - 1 through 7 (of 7 total)