[Martin Heckscher]

Hi Will, I took a photo of the engine end of the decompression device on my Squirrel. It may or may not be helpful. Also attached is a photo of a pair of decompression valves. I don’t know their mechanical state but if they’re of any use to you I’ll put them in the post – let me know…

 

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[Martin Heckscher]

Hi Will, I was only able to post one photo and then crashed out of the website. Here are the others….

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[Martin Heckscher]

Hi Will,

You are probably well aware of this, but I wasn’t sure from your posting: the decompression lever on the handlebar had a dual function. The first half of its movement lifted the decompression bar on the front of the engine, the second half of its movement activated an ignition cutout. The handlebar lever had a sprung pin which, when the lever was fully pulled in, contacted a pin through the handlebar thus cutting the magneto. I have attached some photos…….

Apologies if you were already in the know on this point!

Martin

 

 

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[Martin Heckscher]

Hi Lewis,

I believe that oil tanks became a standard fitment for the 1924 model year although, as you say they had been used on competition bikes for many years prior to that. Apparently my 1923 Squirrel was fitted with an oil tank from new, so they must have been available to order before becoming standard, and if fitted they were recorded in the despatch records.

In August 1925 “The Amateur Mechanic” published the attached article which describes how to add an oil tank to an oil in the frame Scott.

Martin

 

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[Martin Heckscher]

Hi Will,

Just to confirm your thoughts,  years ago Ken Lack told me that I should ALWAYS use the decompressor when starting a 2 speeder in order to ease the load on the various fragile kickstart components.

I am doubtful if I have any spares but will have a search later and get back to you if I find anything.

Best

Martin

[Martin Heckscher]

I propose that as the funniest posting of the last 12 months, but great work and well done Lewis! It even looks superb, well, as superb as a lightweight Scott can look……

 

 

[Martin Heckscher]

I think the transit time depends on the declared value on the customs form. Below a certain level it doesn’t get stuck in huge queues to go through customs formalities. I am still waiting on 2 work parcels from the EU, one of which has already been in transit for over three weeks on a UPS service which prior to Christmas took no more 48 hours. From my perspective it is totally chaotic.

[Martin Heckscher]

Regarding the chrome versus nickel debate: I’m certain that for all the manufacturers there was a transition period during which major components were chromed and existing stocks of nickel plated parts were used up.

 

[Martin Heckscher]

Thank you Neil. They’re fabulous photos.

Martin

[Martin Heckscher]

Hi Neil,

That’s a great photo, but it appears to be your father’s 1925 (1926 model) Super Squirrel, not the 1932 Flyer. Some might prefer it to the later bike!

Do you have other period photos which you’d be happy to share with us?

Good luck

Martin

[Martin Heckscher]

Hi Leif, Folkert, and everyone else,

I apologize for nitpicking, but for the sake of historical accuracy it should be mentioned that Veloce used the Willis positive stop mechanism for a number of years on three speed boxes before the introduction of the four speed. Indeed the Velocette 4 speed ratchet lever is much harder to find than the three speed item. The positive stop design was sold to Scotts because in about 1934 Veloce re-designed their box and the gear indexing was taken inside rather than sitting outside on the top.  Veloce’s 1932-35 spares list states, under the “External foot gear control section” heading:  “Special notice. The manufacture of Footchanges and Spares for them is now in the hands of the Scott Motorcycle Co. Ltd., Shipley, Yorks, to whom all orders for Footchanges or parts should be addressed.”

I have attached a scanned page from a late Book of the Scott showing the footchange mechanism in its later enclosed form. However the positive stop mechanism is shown in reasonable detail.

Folkert, I’d be surprised if the spares scheme didn’t have at least some of the parts you need. I may have a few bits and pieces available if you drop me an email to the address on the inside cover of Yowl.

Best wishes

Martin

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[Martin Heckscher]

Hi,

Sorry for this late reply – I have been laid slightly low with food poisoning, and hadn’t looked at the website since yesterday morning.

Ian Parsons, our registrar, advised me that this is a matching numbers machine. I’ve attached a scan of the buff log issued in the mid 1950s which shows the same numbers as today. As far as I can see it is remarkably original – the saddle has clearly been re-upholstered at some point but almost all the other controls and fitments appear correct and appropriate to the year. It appears never to have been restored, extraordinarily the leathercloth tank covering still bears its Scott limit gauge stamping.

Martin

 

 

 

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[Martin Heckscher]

Sorry! #2 had too much resolution to be added to my last post – I have reduced it and attach it now (hopefully!)

Martin

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[Martin Heckscher]

Hi Maurice,

I have attached the girder fork maintenance notes from an old Pearson guide, it happens to be the Velocette edition, but the subject is covered well and tells you everything you need to know when it comes to looking after your girders.

You will find that adjusting the spindles is very much a case of trial and error, because to gauge what you have done, after each adjustment you must tighten both nuts before checking the washers, and you may well have to do this several times before achieving the desired result. The difference between right and wrong is only a few degrees. It will become much more straightforward after you’ve done it a few times.

Please particularly note the “maintaining your girder fork” paragraph on page 124 (on copy #2) – initially back off the friction dampers to allow the fork to work properly, and then dial them back in small increments, noting the difference each time when you bounce the forks up and down. As Bob Burgess (the author) says “the fork must be allowed to work”!

Let us know how you get on!

Martin

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[Martin Heckscher]

Sorry Phil, you are of course absolutely right, Maurice did indeed report a deterioration, though he didn’t tell us over how long a period this had occurred.

As Stan points out, if the fork spindle adjustment is too tight this would make the ride quality worse – but I would expect it also to have a negative effect on the handling, and as Maurice tells us that it is superb, this is unlikely to be the cause of the harsh ride.

I still think that teles generally deliver a smoother ride over rough roads.

Martin

 

 

 

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