HOME and how to join › Forum › Open Area › General Scott topics › A 1963 Scott in Alabama VYJ141
The Club’s records show its Frame No as S 1320 although 1319? is noted in pencil. Previous owners were
L Budd, Croydon in the early ’60s Probably the first owner as PF is a Surrey registration
P Walker, London W1
S Painter, Harrow in late ’70s
S Gilks, Uxbridge in Dec 86
Then Cascini, Tiernan and A Littlebury, Beckenham in early 95
That is the last recorded owner on the Club’s records. Do you know its recent history?
Yes , I have a lot of material, and I could get a list together of more recent owners in order to update the records if you want. I still can’t find the “S”
With a good quality two-stroke oil in the tank, preferably 40 grade if you can get it, slacken off the feed union going into the pump until oil starts to leak out, and then retighten the union, fairly gently as the pump bodies can be a bit fragile. Then remove the top ‘window frame’ from the pump, and half fill each well with the same oil so as to prime the pump as it might have no oil in it at all. As you have a roller starter you are well equipped to get the oil moving without firing up the engine, so remove the spark plugs, making sure that you know which lead is right and which is left. Then get the bike in 2nd gear, and spin it over until you see that the oil is both disappearing from the wells, AND more oil dripping out of the two ‘beaks’. You can then safely try and start the bike. Replace plug leads, turn on the gas, and depress the tickler button on top of the float chamber until fuel pees out of the vent hole in the float chamber lid. It will also drip from the bottom of the carb until the engine is running. This is normal !
Then turn on the ignition, close the air lever/choke/strangler lever, open the throttle about a quarter to one third open, and operate the kickstart or your roller starter. If all is OK it should fire up immediately. If you just get bangs in the silencer the plug leads may be on the wrong way round…
As soon as the engine is running, check that the oil is dripping into both wells of the pump, and that you are getting some, perhaps lots of smoke out of the exhaust. After a very short time you should be able to open the choke lever fully, and check the flow rate of the oil. Aim for 6 to 10 drips per minute in each side at a fast tickover, no more. As the bike has been restored the carburettor settings may be miles out, so initially the primary air screw should be gently screwed right in and then opened one and a half turns, as a ball-park first setting. With modern petrol containing ethanol the jet size quoted in the handbook no longer apply, and you will probably need a 190 or 200 main jet instead of the old 170. The throttle needle clip should be in the middle groove, and you should have a 6/3 slide.
Good luck, and good Scotting !
Brian
Brian
I think you meant to write “slacken off the feed union to the pump” not the tank!
Dave
Brian ,Thank you very much that’s exactly what I needed 😀
Yes Dave ! Senior moment, again…. (Now corrected)
Brian
Brian, can you recommend a 40w oil that I might be able to order here in the states? There is oil in the tank (which is good thing as its holding) but I don’t know what it is. Also the radiator is full of antifreeze and I see no leaks there either 
Hi James,
The Delo 100 is not a two-stroke oil. It is an oil made for heavy duty diesel engines.
In the U.S. you will probably find genuine 2-stroke oils in shops catering for outboard engines.
Regrds,
Carl
@chstorm wrote:
Hi James,
The Delo 100 is not a two-stroke oil. It is an oil made for heavy duty diesel engines.
In the U.S. you will probably find genuine 2-stroke oils in shops catering for outboard engines.Regrds,
Carl
it is for 2 stroke diesels, and the diesel oils usually have a lot of good additives but it probably is not the good choice
quote “Delo(R) 100 Motor Oils are recommended for use in two and four-stroke diesel engines…”
Hi James. Just had a look at your photo of the frame number. It does NOT look right. It appears to be on the head stock. It is normal to find it on the top of the down tube(left side) alongside the gusset plate. The stamping is just not right. I have looked at a large number of Brum frame numbers in compiling my Brum Scott register, so a closer inspection might show the original stamping. IT will begin with a S, They all do! PS You might have to scrape off some paint and filler to find the truth.
I can’t see anything there, I’ll have to strip the paint, can you show me a photo of what they are supposed look like?
Hi James,again! Sorry I don”t own a Brum any more to take a photo. I sold mine this year after 29 years of much fun and joy of ownership. The Frame Numbers on Brum Scotts are often not clear to work out,as the tube they are stamped on is only about one inch diameter,This often leaves the top and bottom of the letter or numeral faint and hard to read. Eights become sixes, sevens become ones.etc. This is why the Prefix S is read as a 5 I have seen the tube flattened when the stamp has been hammered to much in trying to get the numbers to show clearly! Would have been much better to stamp the gusset plate only !/2 an inch away! Can”t think of a reason why the did”nt !