.@BRIAN MARSHALL wrote:
With a good quality two-stroke oil in the tank, preferably 40 grade if you can get it, slacken off the feed union going into the pump until oil starts to leak out, and then retighten the union, fairly gently as the pump bodies can be a bit fragile. Then remove the top ‘window frame’ from the pump, and half fill each well with the same oil so as to prime the pump as it might have no oil in it at all. As you have a roller starter you are well equipped to get the oil moving without firing up the engine, so remove the spark plugs, making sure that you know which lead is right and which is left. Then get the bike in 2nd gear, and spin it over until you see that the oil is both disappearing from the wells, AND more oil dripping out of the two ‘beaks’. You can then safely try and start the bike. Replace plug leads, turn on the gas, and depress the tickler button on top of the float chamber until fuel pees out of the vent hole in the float chamber lid. It will also drip from the bottom of the carb until the engine is running. This is normal !
Then turn on the ignition, close the air lever/choke/strangler lever, open the throttle about a quarter to one third open, and operate the kickstart or your roller starter. If all is OK it should fire up immediately. If you just get bangs in the silencer the plug leads may be on the wrong way round…
As soon as the engine is running, check that the oil is dripping into both wells of the pump, and that you are getting some, perhaps lots of smoke out of the exhaust. After a very short time you should be able to open the choke lever fully, and check the flow rate of the oil. Aim for 6 to 10 drips per minute in each side at a fast tickover, no more. As the bike has been restored the carburettor settings may be miles out, so initially the primary air screw should be gently screwed right in and then opened one and a half turns, as a ball-park first setting. With modern petrol containing ethanol the jet size quoted in the handbook no longer apply, and you will probably need a 190 or 200 main jet instead of the old 170. The throttle needle clip should be in the middle groove, and you should have a 6/3 slide.
Good luck, and good Scotting !
Brian
the good news… well it runs 
the bad news….not very good 😥 😥 😥
It seems the engine is completely full of oil, well now my shop and drive is covered. 😯 😯 😯
I think my remote test fuel tank has a moving blockage causing it to run on the float bowl only.
The Lucas alternator and my brand new wiring harness seem to be working OK
No bad noises or lock ups
I will regroup when I catch my breath and get out the starter
no oil on the clutch, looks to be like new, old new 😕 but new, no wear, no slots in the basket or hub, corks are OK, so it might a be an adjustment issue. Or a clutch actuating mechanism issue
