[Russell]

Thanks for the response, we haven’t checked the timing accurately, we’ve only checked that the spark was happening with the piston “near” TDC to ensure the HT leads were the correct way round, it is “trying” to run like this. We only tried swapping the leads as a last resort as we’d tried everything else ! and it felt as though it was trying “not to run” like that so swapped them back. I would have expected it to start, even if running irregularly with the timing not spot on?

No we didn’t strip the whole engine, just the barrels and crankcase doors, and yes it is a distributer, which we didn’t “move” when stripping the engine.

[Russell]

Had another day trying to start this with no success, we’ve tried all suggestions but none seem to help. When trying to bump start it, it does cough and fire but wont run. We’ve got a spark, and fuel (the plugs get wet), timing is roughly correct, and we’re pretty sure the plug leads are the correct way round (as when it does fire with them swapped it seems rougher).

We’ll double check everything again tomorrow, but has anyone got any other suggestions as we’re getting very frustrated 😡 If there is anyone in the local area that could call in and take a look at it, we’d be more than happy to pay for your time.

Cheers
Russell

[Russell]

We still haven’t managed to get this started ! There appears to be a strong spark, the plug leads are correct, there is fuel getting through, but its not firing even when trying to push start (apart from the occasional bang), I’ve tried a different set of plugs (not new ones though), but to no avail !

Is there something fundamental here we’re missing !!

[Russell]

Okay thanks, it didn’t leak before, but maybe I never noticed as it started okay so was never sat with the float chamber full and not running.

[Russell]

Hi, thanks for that, I’ll give it a go, any ideas why the carb would be “leaking”, i thought the needle might be stuck but it seems okay, what else could cause the carb to leak petrol ?

[Russell]

Anyone any other suggestions ?

[Russell]

Many thanks again Brian for your advice. I have found the following article by Roger Moss with regard to the cylinder head torques which for the uninitiated like me, who is notorious for breaking things by over tightening, is very useful.

https://www.mossengineering.co.uk/index.php?area=5&content=200

With regard to the “correct special ‘deep’ nuts” for the cylinder head, what is “special” about these and where can they be obtained.

Yes it would have been nice to have piston ring compressors as we have broken 2 rings in the process of getting the barrels back on (thanks to Richard of scottparts.co.uk for his advice on how to install the new ones), that was before we realised its easier if the pistons are staggered rather than trying to get both in at the same time, again probably common sense, but when you’ve never done it before 😕 but we have now got the barrels back on 😀 first step complete !

[Russell]

Hi Brian, okay thats great, many thanks for your help – Russell

[Russell]

Hi Brian, that’s very good of you, I’ll get them sent off next week, Regards Russell

[Russell]

Hi thanks, the old and new taps are different threads, hence my problem, the new one is supposed to be 1/8″ BSP but won’t scew into the adapter more than a turn a two then gets “stuck” so I’ve presumed the old tap isn’t 1/8″ BSP, so I haven’t tried to force it. The old tap and adapter thread isn’t corroded (or is the thread into the cylinder), the tap handle broke while trying to open it. Perhaps the following photo will make things clearer…

On the left is the adapter that fits into the cylinder (which is okay), next is the old broken tap, next is the new tap. The new tap won’t fit into the adapter, so I either need an alternate tap that will fit the adapter, or an alternate adapter that the new tap will fit and that has the same thread as the old adapter to fit into the cylinder. The trouble is I’m not sure what any of the threads are, and I guess my measuring skills aren’t very accurate, so all suggestions welcome !

[Russell]

Thanks for the advice, I can measure the pitch of the thread in the cylinder from the “adapter”. The best I can measure it, is for the old tap – O.D. = 0.375″ core ~ 0.33″ pitch ~ 0.039″ and for the “adaptor” that screws into the cylinder O.D. = 0.427″ core ~ 0.36″ pitch ~ 0.053″. Does that help ?

[Russell]

I received the new tap today, but unfortunately it is a slightly different size to the one I have, the new tap is physically slightly smaller, and its thread outside diameter slightly larger at 9.7mm (old is 9.55mm) and the thread seems slightly finer on the new one, so I guess mine is none standard. The tap on mine fits into a small adapter (which the new tap won’t screw in to) which in turn fits into a slightly larger hole on the cylinder block, the diameter of the thread of the adapter that fits into the block is 10.85mm but I have no idea what type of thread it is, or that of the original tap, any ideas ?

[Russell]

The thread in the barrel is fine so I just need a replacement tap, the outside diameter of the thread is roughly 10mm so I presume this is 1/8″ BSP as you have said, I’ve managed to find this – https://www.completeautomobilist.com/products/338-straight-drain-tap-1, does this look correct ? or can you suggest an alternate source ?

Also any suggestions of where to source a set of gaskets/seals ?

Thanks again – Russell

[Russell]

Thanks for all the advice, we have managed to free the engine using the method Brian suggested, it freed quite easily. We checked through the transfer ports and no visible damage, also checked through the alternator door and no obvious overheating or traces of metallic fragments (just a very small amount of “filings” in the crankcase well). We’ve now stripped off the head and barrels and all looks okay, there is a small amount of “smearing” on the right hand piston (not the one that was seized), so it looks like we’ve got off without any damage. Just the pilgrim pump to check now.

We now need a gasket/seal set to rebuild and also a barrel coolant drain tap (as that got damaged while stripping it down), have you any recommendations of where to obtain these, also anything to watch out for while putting it back together?

[Russell]

Thanks Brian, I have applied some penetrating oil to the bores, and will let you know how I get on. I’m pretty sure its the left hand cylinder that has been starved of oil, its the left hand side of the pilgrim pump that is dry, and on removing the spark plugs the left hand one is relativly clean compared with the right hand which is more sooted/oiled. If I can free the cylinder, will it require a total engine strip down or just a top end strip down to check for cylinder damage ? – Cheers Russell

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