Aha, thanks, Dave. Sorry its a bit late but here’s a. photo of my crank which has just been knocked up with the Moss-supplied bolt tightened.

I notice that Michael’s crank is marked “Right hand” I can’t remember. if the originals are so marked but Moss ones certainly are, hence my assumption that its one of Roger’s๐
Sorry Dave, I have to disagree there if we are talking about the centre bolt. If it’s a Moss crank, that engagement is about right. I have mine apart at the moment and it’s the same.
If it ain’t broke…
Apologies, Doug. Engine problem prevented me meeting the aforementioned VMCC chaps today. I will pass on to you anything I find out
Oh blimey! I’m meeting a few vmcc members tomorrow, will ask about.๐๐ป
Sorry, Doug. Only just seen your post. I’m sure I took his number from Yowl. I’ll keep an eye out for any info; Im only half an hour from Swindon so word gets around. I hope he’s doing OK.
Although sae40 will work better with the pump, just about any 2stroke oil (preferably synthetic) will work just as well. As long as your pump isn’t worn out, it will still pulse and drip. As long as your pump is working, you don’t need oil in the fuel as well. If you are in the UK, Silkolene do a sae40 2 stroke synthetic oil. Hope this helps.
I spoke to Chris on the phone number in Yowl a couple of weeks ago and he said he was busy getting through a backlog but was certainly working then but very busy.
not so near, sadly but stay in touch, we may be able to organise something๐
There are a bunch of us in Chippenham area, where are you Charlie?
Are you still struggling?
Removing the crankcase doors isn’t as daunting a task as you may think. They are held on with little clamps each held in place by a 5/16BSF nut. Thats just over 1/2 inch across the hexagon or just smaller than 13mm.
I can see Scotty H’s point in checking the ‘wells’ but I can’t see why there wouldn’t be any oil in them, there’s no reason to drain the oil from there. Whereabouts are you based, geographically?
We’re all waiting to hear if it starts!๐