[PhilCrowder]

Stephen, one of my two sons has today taken me to collect a substantial part of what looks to be a Web forked but three stud head version of the 300 cc lightweight. It has no cylinder head ( which I can make) no complete wheels but the hubs are in the as yet to be emptied bits tray. The Mag and drive is there but no carb. It has a period  but incomplete seat, a neat looking silencer. The two piece tank is in good shape so all in all first glance a good project. I have made a fair recovery from my fractured neck and stomach ulcer and first job is to build up missing parts and bolt together as complete a bike as sensible. Intention is to be mechanically sound and neat, but concourse it will not be . As the forks are Web its appearance will be the later version. I can make most things but if anyone has appropriate bits I am happy to pay.   Lewis I shall be using your photos etc avidly and whilst my computer skills are hinged round quill pen and parchment I will take a few pictures as I go.  Phil

[PhilCrowder]

Interesting that most cylinder head bolts have torque loadings recommended. Not however always to do with the strength or specification of the bolt or stud material which will stretch. But often to do with the fixing into a block or the type and thickness of  nut which can be either end. The material you suggest is in the range EN8  . or EN9 which would be commonly available just after the war. Washer area against Aluminium will dictate how much crush element takes place but its gaskets which  I think require a re tightening after a running in period. Its an argument I have never totally won!

[PhilCrowder]

Lewis. I am slowly recovering from illness and have just seen your postings. I have purchased but not yet collected a lightweight 300.. I expect to collect in feb and be back at work by then. I believe my purchase has a cylinder head missing and possibly other bits , its an earlier model we think. I will watch this space with great interest and hope to finish with a good runner to go with my 29 600 and my CYC-Auto which is nearly ready. Regarding plating and finishes I am an oily rag man but like them to go and stop, so you have no competitive worries on that score. I may well ask you for photos of details so I can make any bits missing.

[PhilCrowder]

Well done and I have noted some additional photos of last years gathering. Lewis is there any way the chronological posts, ie latest ones from whatever topic can be shown , it can be quite difficult to even find some you know are there. ?  Might improve the usage !   Phil

[PhilCrowder]

Not sure really why I would like one. I have about 15 two stroke singles from cyclemasters various cyclemotors and a twin cylinder cyclemaster I made. I do have my Squirrel and the CYC – Auto which has the Scott engine. Peter knows how to get the best out of tuning which I assist by machining. We have made pistons, altered strokes, over bored etc. I fancy making a Scott single go ” better”.  Look forward to seeing yours running.  Phil                  PS my twin Cyclemaster is how Scotts might have been. Twin carb , electronic ignition , twin exhausts.

[PhilCrowder]

Not a spare one in our parts. What do you want it to do ? I am looking still for a lightweight single 300 as I am now finishing a Scott autocycle ( CYC-AUTO. Your project  sounds interesting ?

[PhilCrowder]

If your engine still overheats , then the radiator might be being asked to do too much and the mixture strength might be a bit weak. Heat transfer also depends on ambient , so warmer days will affect it. All my other  two strokes are air cooled and two do have an under the plug bimetal  heat sensor so head temperatures can be monitored. Quite interesting when the reading  gets high!!!!

[PhilCrowder]

Sounds like it wants flushing. There are several products available for car radiators such as Holts. I had a BSA Three wheeler and that used to boil till it was flushed out. The water ways on my Scott are only about half a mm or less and I was surprised how much grit came out of the spare  just by shaking.

[PhilCrowder]

If you can find someone locally with a lathe equiped with a collet chuck. Then gripping on the shaft end and using the lathe cross slide to push the other end round till its all true. This type of shaft is generally bent in the undercut ( or neck) at the shaft first step. Offer still applies  FOC . You do enough for the club, accept a bit back, error in my first statement  its 64 years  time does fly !

[PhilCrowder]

Or send me the shaft and there is a good chance I can straighten it. Or make a new one. ( I have spent 56 years repairing and making engineering parts)  Phil Crowder

[PhilCrowder]

The general rule appears to be . Starting from cold requires a tickle . ie a bit rich. From warm no tickle and not rich. So get your carb fettled. Mine does like to be almost kicking back on advance as well.  Phil

[PhilCrowder]

Well done. I am responding to show not just interest in your efforts but to maintain interest in this forum. If it is to resume activity then we must contribute. The Scott activity on facebook is easy and interesting but it does not easily maintain a record or even a theme for long. I would hope that contributers to that will similarly be active on here. Whilst there are some difficulties in “manoovering” on the site it is  not that difficult once you have done it. The records available here  are much , much improved.   Phil

[PhilCrowder]

I presently only have one bike with telescopic forks. either normal or upside down ones. I don’t ride much but my first Triumph had girders which I replaced with Matchless Teles. Its  64years since and I think it might have been an improvement. I did use to make F1 shock absorber parts , they were searching for improved damping in both directions,and adjustable at that. So whilst its quite obvious that hydraulic damping is superior to friction, it will depend on other things if handling is to also be considered. A pair of good Girders might well be better than some tubular based teles. I think that Vincent’s were girders with hydraulic damping. I can also possibly claim to have straightened more telescopic forks in York than the rest put together. Only repaired perhaps 10 girders of which the Scott which is neither was in its original brazing a bit suspect.  My first Norton  had girders , I was just glad to get it to run and it took me 10  miles to get it out of first gear !

[PhilCrowder]

Martin I think his experience suggests that it appeared different from before. It may not be , but as you say there are plenty of articles on how to maintain girder forks.  You should try the ride on cyclemotors which seem much better on balloon tyres. These days avoiding potholes is a national sport.     I am just getting a Cyc Auto back together, that has blade type girder forks .    Still looking for a 300 cc lightweight. !!!!!

[PhilCrowder]

If adjusting the damper makes no difference, check the friction discs. If they get grease in they become less effective.. Try new ones in clean conditions. Some people have strange ideas about the material to make discs from.

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