Looking back through these records for photos of the 1930 399 single. I have most of one but not likely to have all original parts. Its getting near to completion and photos particularly in the gear change and brake pedal are would help in making something in keeping Mine is mainly a first year one but with replaced forks. I have made a cylinder head and primary case etc. Engine no x54. I do also have a Flying Squirrel and a Scott CYK-Auto, Phil Crowder
Ok so the oil way is to lubricate the bearing for the clutch using oil residue from the crankcase main bearing.. I am assuming you have the Scott version. I did have a drawing from another book which was helpful , If I can find it I will but my CYC~Auto is assembled. When being driven the assembly will be rotating all together so it might be assumed it only wants minute oil for when depressing the clutch. Peter will tell you. Phil
I do not understand , the clutch? mainshaft should not have petroil . It would be lubricating oil for the worm wheel arrangement. The clutch and integral brake arrangement takes a bit of setting as the transmission brake if the plates are over stacked or not set can bind. Smiths Auto is the port of call as at one time I understood he had towards 30 in his stock. I have seen schematic drawings of the transmission in David Beare’s The Wilfred Saga.
What size are the bars . I suspect 7/8″ diam. Clamps might be for 1″. You can get bars that are 1″ at the stem or clamp area and 7/8″ elsewhere. I have a bike with split tubes out of 16swg tube to make up the slack. Phil
Whilst a sticker on the photo says sold and the high sales value is shown. Did it actually go for this? Many times the actuals are different. For example did the price include auction fees?
Yes Brian. I have used the prototype pictures to scale up my machined from solid head. Only have to machine about half the fins and it will be complete. Could not find a head or even a full engine to copy. The water cooled starter engine also has some good views. . Phil
Now I have most of the parts to continue the remaking of the 300cc lightweight. Cylinder head ready to machine for spark plug and fins. I would still like to find any original parts for this bike including a cylinder head as a pattern always helps. Any literature etc would also be good and if I do make parts that others might want I can recipricate . Best wishes Phil
My 29 Squirrel runs on R grade oil. Others have alternatives and different methods of metering. Some are converted to petroil mix and some do a bit of both. You would be best trying to find out what the previous user had set up as mixing of oil types is not recommended without cleaning through. It would appear that oiling of Scotts is perhaps the most talked about subject and opinion is varied. However I believe that your starting point is what went before. You can smell the type of oil on mine and it has a Pilgrim pump set to drip at a suitable period on both sides. I also have some oil in with the petrol for safety about 50 to one. Never been in a minefield before!!!! Phil
Without seeing the damage hard to tell. The thread might well take a helicoil if not might braze up or fit a flanged nut which is common. Take a picture if you can. Double levers appear on E Bay at various prices , some 7/8″ ones have enough substance to bore out. You can PM me on facebook. Phil
I have had no response to my search so I have made a start on a billet of aluminium 6″ diameter 3 1/2″ long. I am now looking for a suitable pilgrim type pump. Like Lewis progress will be slow.
So far I have had no tickle of response for my search for a cylinder head for the 300cc lightweight. I have worked out the sizes from sectioned views from a Scott book. So I will start making one from these estimated dimensions in the hope that sods law says an original or engine appears when I cut off the blank which is 6″ diameter and 3″ or so thick. If you do have a head or an engine in any condition I would be grateful as at least dimensions can be confirmed. I am not a Scott aficionado but manufacturing wise I can be useful in return!!!! Regards Phil
Just as an extra. When the balls are fitted ( presumably the correct size) there should be about one ball space left otherwise they ride up. It is not difficult to pick the wrong size ball if too small they will not hold position. Some metric balls are smaller than the imperial look alike!
Who knows what went before.? Whilst the balls might sit snuggly in the cups the cup register diameters may have been changed so check that the cups locate and hold position. It is quite common in engineering to have pairs of cups etc with different diameters on the pairs as the cups stay fixed in one part but free to rotate in the other. It follows therefore that a previous owner may have altered diameters to suit standard thrust races and away from what should be there. Some sizes are not now readily available and cheaper substitutes are looked for. I am a Scott novice but have been selling and modifying bearings for a few decades.
Now I have my 300cc Scott, it looks basically a 1930 three bolt cylinder head engine. Most missing bits are period parts. No cylinder head so before I make one I will see if anyone has a head or an engine by advertising in Yowl. The gearbox fitted is not an FW but likely to be made to fit. I feel sure the performance can be reasonable, after all I have 32 CC Cyclemasters doing 30 MPH Hope I get it complete before I ” go” . I have been doing a Tiger Cub for 40 years!
Thanks for the interest. I have for mine a continuation Log Book from 1947. Frame nos 31 and engine nos X 59. Reg no JUG 375. all to be checked hopefully club records and DVLA might be able to retrieve the number. First job is to take photos and learn how to properly transmit the information. I will be pleased to help the other restorer of a 300. He can contact me via facebook messenger . I think my gearbox might be an Albion but for certain it wont be running this week!.