[PhilCrowder]

Yes use it till it is improved. would be nice to know progress.

[PhilCrowder]

Yes no glue . there is a small internal rim to pop them past which retains the flat viton. dont forget a hole in the centre for air flow as fuel is used a light air replacement is required.

[PhilCrowder]

Got some viton squares off E bay cut them with a stanley knife . They have been fine so far.

[PhilCrowder]

Try WDS they have an on line catalogue a wide variety of retained and removable pins

[PhilCrowder]

Had a nice run on monday to a Backfire meet at Stamford Bridge near York. I am getting used to the bike but find changing gear easy enough when time to think and look at the lever. Not so good when changing down , particularly when I should be braking as unlike some of my other past bikes there is engine braking foot change or only one gear. There must be a technique to gear changing through the gate or perhaps there are less opportunities on a Scott ( three speed ) to change. Experiences from other riders would be appreciated. I would like to get to my 80th in a few weeks time! and a few club events when posted.

[PhilCrowder]

Thanks for the reply Barrie and Brian( gets the website moving) I sell seals . bearings etc and have access to Viton rubber so I will make a few for the screw type caps.

[PhilCrowder]

Triumph rocker spindle spring washers are light and 1/2″ bore. Might be an easy alternative.

[PhilCrowder]

For friction discs we had a small batch made by Custom Brakes Sheffield, A bit brittle if too thin, 2 or 3 mm depending on the material structure .Its grease or water ingress that changes the amount of damping otherwise wood tufnol etc will work, after all there used to be traction engines and bikes using wood as brake blocks but the surfaces there would be wearing clean.

[PhilCrowder]

I am sure wood or cardboard etc will fulfill a static function for fork damper material However wood against clean metal probably has little better than a coefficient of friction of .2 with a bit of oil its a very good low friction bearing. Brake type friction materials are more like .4 against clean metal 100% more. I myself would prefer fork damping to work within the star spring pressure range . Friction discs can be bought for roughly £10 a pair. Safety first?

[PhilCrowder]

The Web Forks we have just repaired for our Nortons are right hand both ends. One end is for the lock nut. Custom brakes supplied the friction disc. We make our spindles in EN 16T . Most machine shops will make to a sample. Friction discs really should be made in a small batch for economy. Contact me if you want further help. Phil

[PhilCrowder]

Appearance wise , stainless is more than acceptable. However when using stainless parts with threads that are “demountable” beware of the welding effect you can get making them unremovable. Engineering wise they are a nightmare. Use a non stainless nut not stainless to stainless. Blacking in the fifties was called Brunofixing. You can still purchase chemicals to blacken mild and carbon steels. The protection is mainly oil impregnation.

[PhilCrowder]

Originality. showroom finish and serviceable use are individual choices. Bikes do become the focus from its owner,value being only one aspect. Mine was a 1929 sidecar sand racer with a long seat and rear wheel guarding. I removed most of that but kept as much of the previous owners work as practical. We all like to think our treasures have increasing monetary value but they are for use, and whilst I bought mine for my 79th birthday and mileage will not be great. Its on the road and running. The club forum and details available on the website are very good ( sometimes a bit conflicting) and because of my interest my two sons now have Scott’s. The Forum has excellent past information but is a bit underused since the club has 600 or more members. Most of us will have other makes of motorcycle ( or cyclemotors ) and hardware ,components and methods of repair are common. Long way round to say the tool box lid looks good !

[PhilCrowder]

I notice a split link in the magneto chain. Since I am about to change mine using industrial chain. What is the general opinion of using a split link or riveting? I also have to say does total originality really matter?

[PhilCrowder]

Its running well and I am learning the ” ropes” Hand changing is a first in 65 years . While the weather holds I am using it but before I fit a new mag chain ( which is stiff) I will measure the advance.

[PhilCrowder]

Thanks for the interest. It does run well but having been involved with motorcycles for over 60 years. Timing ( ignition) never seemed as critical and having no experience of Scott’s I am curious to know if its a common trait as my next task is to replace the magneto chain and set the timing in line with what is there now.

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