[PhilCrowder]

Glyn mine required a stop fixing to two of the gearbox cover bolts works ok.   Martin will have to take the cover off to fit the different bush. Might be as easy to drill the flange of the existing from the inside as either way it has to come off. I did find when I fitted my kick start , that parts available as replacements were not perfectly interchangeable and in some instances not available.

[PhilCrowder]

My Scott had no kickstart. I looked on Scott Technicalities and there is an un dimensioned drawing which gives enough information as to how it goes. The pawl slot position is critical or you loose stroke of the lever. . Set this correct and drill a dowel hole through the flange into the gearbox cover and fit a pin or a screw.  I am not sure what lubrication is recommended but on mine I use a fluid grease. My gearbox was peculiar in that it had a ball race where the shaft would have come out, in your case its a bronze bush. Might be worn and letting fluid out. If you can when replacing this groove the inside for a thin o ring ,  might help. If its too tight the kick start lever might not return. Pawl shape is critical for a full strike, I bought one that required some grinding to let it drop in cleanly.  I did graft a shaft extension onto the layshaft , not knowing anything about  Scotts  , I was quite lucky it all worked out.  But spend some time looking at the drawing and it all becomes  less foggy.!     Regards Phil

[PhilCrowder]

I don’t know enough about the state of your Brampton forks.  But  I have recently been repairing some other Scott forks which have sliders. The basic girder forks on most bikes can be bent and you should check that first. They can be tweeked if required to take  spacers  by gently pulling the blades apart. But your forks might have had a ”  bump” The various slider type forks can not be ” spread ” that easily as the sliders have to remain parallel . The ones I have been  ” repairing” were out by well over 1/2″ and I replaced both tube supports with solid bar keeping the fork ends as the original centres.  There are those who quite rightly avoid straightening motorcycle forks , old tubes can be corroded from the inside.  Even by hand forks will spread a little but I use a car scissor jack often you only require 1/4″ and a fiddle with spacers and brake plates.   Just as an aside. The Scott forks were original to Scott and the brazing in some parts had only penetrated 25%  They almost hold together by the load on them !

[PhilCrowder]

Glad you got sorted.  I have to admit that over the years I have made Tufnol gears from 1″ dia up to 2ft. Tufnol is laminated cloth and can be purchased in rod tube and sheet. In order that the teeth dont fall off the laminations must go across the tooth. HPC and others make standard small gears in various materials. 20 DP is an imperial standard. If you select a material that is not  ” self lubricating” such as aluminium it is likely fail in our application. Normally Mag Dynos tend to be on four strokes driven by chain or gears well flushed with oil mist. On ours they are dry chain driven so not as well oily fed. Tufnol will run without oil silently. Yes small batches are better as setting up the dividing head and cutter will take about an hour then about  4 or 5 machined on a mandrel at a time.  £50 is about right for specially produced from a blank, so you have done ok.   Phil.

[PhilCrowder]

At 20 DP more likely to be 39 tooth.  You could find a bigger one and use it as a blank to turn it down and cut the teeth. I dont know how many variations there are, but stick to fiber ( tufnol)

[PhilCrowder]

If the size you want is not immediately available , keep looking. If you want to turn up a blank . The I can cut the teeth, but will want its mating gear and centres. The fiber is there for a reason, quietness !. If its too tight in mesh they whine.and aluminium will wear, the Tufnol does not.   Phil

[PhilCrowder]

Any amount on E Bay.  I would also check if your dynamo is free running.   Phil

[PhilCrowder]

Nice photo Lewis . If I find one of these 300 cc singles it will not be as pristine , but I would attempt to make it go and stop well.I have over my 64 years of owning motorcycles , never been an avid rider , more of an ” improver ” but like the bikes to be sensibly original.

[PhilCrowder]

Interesting that additions to the website include a nice, as Lewis says a rose coloured glasses test of the lightweight 300. Obviously the 1931 looks to be the better bet. I haven’t seen one for sale so I will keep a look out, might be my last project although I have a Cyc Auto coming to go with my dozen or so cyclemotors.

[PhilCrowder]

That’s a good picture of perhaps the 1930 model ? One like that would do. I have about 15 cyclemotors including a Cyc Auto engine. and a twin cylinder Cyclemaster. My Squirrel is 1929 . I just fancy that a Lightweight Scott might be able to be re engineered ( engine porting or reed valved different bearings etc) to go well enough and complement my other collections. I had better now learn how to put photos on here as they tell a thousand words

[PhilCrowder]

Glad to see the issues are being addressed . I did try to send an E Mail to Louise but the blank address does not respond. It might be a good idea to post a tutorial NOW ! that comes up first as to how to negotiate the site. For example I appear to have to double click some items and trying to find a topic works but not unless you give an exact title . Whilst some users are satisfied most are not , a description of how to negotiate might well resolve some of the issues and allow less niggles. There are over 30 posts suggesting improvements , well ok complaints, and I found it difficult but not impossible to find them. I think that might be the crux, its a very difficult site to browse and to react to posts compared with say facebook. I am compiling my list, I do not expect them all to be resolved as operator dis function at 80 probably does play a part.( but perhaps not as much as you think !)

[PhilCrowder]

Nothing wrong with the cheaper carbon steel taps. In fact if they break they can be softened and easier to get out. Hexagon sizes are also random but were reduced over time to save metal . On motorcycles ( and other machines ) some designed a range of bolts with the same hex to reduce the number of tools required in the kit. What looks right probably is right but I prefer bigger not smaller as the corners of the hex are less bruised the bigger the flat. In my early years ( 50s ) few could afford ring spanners and Phillips screws were only just arriving, followed by posidrive and now the hateful torque.So cross head or nick head small screws are best driven loose by small hammer driver to preserve the head. I also prefer short spanners to try to avoid shearing and Loctite in its various forms a very useful tool not available in the vintage years. Phil

[PhilCrowder]

Such a wide variety . It is however important if you are looking for originality to look at the across flats sizes. Over the years this changed as national standards tried to reduce material content. We have an industrial engineering shop and carry vast quantities of taps and dies but still have to buy sizes we are missing. A lathe is handy to screw cut male threads and therefore just purchase taps ( generally second taps )

[PhilCrowder]

One of the several criticisms of this new website was that photos of high definition could not be accepted. Your pictures show very fine detail. I wondered from what camera or phone you took your photos from as they have fine detail and obviously were accepted on the posting. We do want more like this and increasing activity. Would also be nice to know any movement on solving missing features and easier use on the website.

[PhilCrowder]

Fantastically descriptive photos. What did you take them on? I did see a complaint that the definition accepted on this forum was not good enough. These are top notch.

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