Hi Martin
Before the swastika was adopted by the nazis, it was a rather innocent symbol of power (maybe it was because of the power meaning that they adopted it?). The well known Swedish electrical company ASEA, later ABB, and many others used it. I have read somewhere that the symbol dates back to ancient India. Really nothing to to with Scott, but I find historical background interesting.
Best regards
Leif
Hi Edward
Your tank looks smashing! You often have to compromise and use a component that’s not strictly original, but as long as it finished properly I would be the last to complain.
Seems that, at a time when Scott’s could be bought cheaply, some had very bad taste in choosing colours, when repainting. Yours was in ghastly maroon, and mine was, at one stage, in metallic light blue!
I’m very pleased that you have started your renovation series. It certainly brings new life to the forum. Looking forward to the coming issues!
Best regards
Leif
Hi Edward
Your Scott look like a good starting point for just tidying up/repainting everything and of course doing what’s needs to be done to make it run well. Restoring to original would be a mammoth task, when so many major components has been exchanged in the past. It will look very nice if you give it a real “makeover”.
I was in about the same situation when I bought my 28 TT Rep, this without really knowing how it looked from the beginning. I decided to rebuild the bike to appear somewhat like it looked like, when I bought it, but to a much higher standard. This because I really liked the general look. Even without lengthy search for the missing original components, it has taken long time and it have cost me a bundle!
And yes, I wanted a challenge too. After many years with one cylinder, air cooled, four strokes, a two cylinder, water cooled, two stroke seemed to fit the bill!
I hope you enjoy your challenge!
Leif
Hi
Thanks for the response. If I have had no response, in this important matter, I think that this would have been my last posting! For us “overseas” the forum is a vital link to the club. It’s not easy to form a section and have meetings when, to my knowledge, there are only six Scott owners spread around in Sweden! There must be a few more, but where?
Quite right, it’s soo easy to criticise what others have done. Like the “nit pickers” who loudly criticise others bikes in public, but seldom do anything usable themselves!
Let’s help each other instead of criticising, there’s enough REAL trouble anyway.
One good thing would be a little “manual” with facts about how to use the site, what’s allowed and not allowed. For example file types and sizes.
Best wishes and keep up the good work!
Leif
Hi again
It worked for me anyway, just klick in the blank space after, “the sites address is”
The forum could be a bit more lively! We all should be very grateful of the work Lewis Onions and helpers have put into this site. In these “isolated” times the (nearly?) full sets of Yowl available on the site provides many reading hours for those to which. I hope that Facebook groups not take over too much from the forum. This is OUR site so we might as well support it!
Best regards
Leif
Hi
Through the years I have amassed a lot of taps and dies of different thread forms and sizes. But despite this, it’s sometimes like I told my wife when she asked me what I kept in a certain cupboard. My answer was: Every possible threading tool, but the one I need at the moment!
Sometimes you have to compromise and use what’s at hand. From an engineering point of view 9/16”x20 could, for all practical reasons, be substituted with M14x1,25, wich is the most common spark plug thread. Then, of course, new nuts also have to be made, but they are commonly mangled too, in my experience. The difference is that the metric thread is about 0.3 mm smaller in diameter, and the pitch is about o.o2 mm finer. DO NOT MIX, even if it could be possible in one direction!
Yes, 9/16”x20 is one of the threads used for pedal cycle cranks, right hand on the right side and left hand on the left side, if my memory serves me right.
Best regards
Leif M
Hi again
Here comes the picture!
Best regards
Leif
Hi Brian
Welcome to the family!
I was to make a new post when something else came in the way and then I regretfully forgot all about it.
Regarding the percentages, there must be a certain percentage of nut in us all!
That’s why I always, for safety’s sake, keep my my hat on outdoors. This to keep the squirrels away from the place of the nuttiness!
Thanks for the info and best regards
Leif
Thanks Brian for those rather unexpected facts.
Must have been a somewhat degrading improvement, if there is such a thing! Going from taper rollers to cup and cone seems like going a bit backwards, but probably it was cheaper.
Don’t know what’s inside my headstock, but the spacer and dust cover on top looks well made but homemade. As the forks turns sweet as silk with no noticeable clearance I’ll leave it “as is” until I’ve got a good reason to dismantle.
Best regards
Leif
Thanks Lewis
À days enforced rest turned me into speculating mode! It rang a bell in the back of my head when I read about your forks.
I’ve sometimes wondered when the Webb forks was assembled on my bike. Probably not when new as you say. They will stay there in the future, although.
Have done a bit of basic “research” on what Webb forks was fitted to wich Velocette in the past so I got curious.
Can’t learn too much, the problem is to remember it all!
Best regards
Leif
Hi Lewis
By description and your pictures it seems like the Webb forks I’ve got on my TT rep. No light mounting holes nor speedo mounting. And yours look like a heavyweight Webb, too.
The thing that puzzles me is that my steering stem seems a bit long, as there is a distance piece put in under the upper fork crown. Those forks can’t be from a Velocette as the only forks used by them, with longer stem, was KSS MkI, but this forks was a medium weight Webb. The Velo forks should also have provisions for lights and speedometer.
I don’t know if those forks were originally fitted to my motorcycle, as a customers requirement, it should obviously, as standard, be the kite forks.
I will keep it as it is however, I consider if it is a period modification, to be a part of history too.
Please let me know about the steering stem length on your motorcycle. Does it seem right or do you have a distance piece fitted too? Most Webb stems seems to be around 8” long but mine is at least 1/2” longer.
Best regards
Leif
Hi Barry
Yes, you probably get a decent lightweight motorcycle for that sum!
If you have a good, but not right headlamp: keep it until the right thing turns up to a sensible price. They both fit in the same fixings.
I, personally think it will not look too out of place, don’t take notice of any negative comments, it’s YOUR bike (and wallet)!
Best regards
Leif
Hi again Barry.
Lucas was the biggest supplier of electrical equipment and is my best guess because Scott used Lucas equipment a few years later.
Unfortunately my Lucas main catalogue “only” dates back to 1936 and the lights listed for Scott, in this catalogue, weren’t available in 1932.
You might try to find an earlier Lucas catalogue and see if lightning equipment were listed for Scott then.
Furthermore, the Scott works seems to have been willing to satisfy individual customer requirements, in many respects. This makes it even harder to tell what’s original.
Best regards
Leif
Hi Barry
I’m just guessing in this case, but a Lucas H52 (6 1/2”) can’t be too wrong, as this headlamp was produced 1930 to 1932. In my opinion this headlamp is a masterpiece of over engineering! With bayonet coupled rim, spring loaded reflector and all internal connections by copper sheet, it must have been very costly to produce.
Unfortunately, decent and even rough, original ones are most often very expensive, nowadays.
Outwardly good looking replicas are produced in the Czech Republic, but they are quite costly too. Internally those replicas are a bit simplified, but those Czechs seems, generally, to produce quality items. I’ve bought other things from them, but no lamp.
Any different views on this subject would be appreciated, as I’m quite interested in old lighting equipment.
Good luck with your chase!
Merry Christmas to you and all other members
Leif (Sweden)
Hi
The pros in the industrial chain business recommends constant lubrication with clean, thin oil.
An oil bath is naturally the best, but rather impossible to achieve on a Scott.
I have a Velocette primary chain, running in oil bath, that have lasted almost thirty years! After a considerable mileage the chain is as new.
Next best is a regular supply of clean oil, for example an oil drip.
I have had good results with this on my Velocette, where I have directed the vent hose from the oil tank to the drip on the rear chain. This chain always seems happy and the dirt gets flung off automatically. This naturally flings a bit on the bike but ordinary oil is rather easy to wipe off.
There must be something in it, as some “adventure” rider riders, on modern bikes, swears that the Scott (!) oiler and its relatives are the best thing that you can use. Those oilers gives you a regulated drip on the chain. And those guys ride in very harsh conditions ranging from mud to desert sand.
Chain sprays on the other hand seems to collect dirt and the chain needs regular cleaning. I also doubt that some chain sprays reach the inner of the links. Many of the chain sprays seems formulated for modern O-ring chains.
Good old Linklyfe also collect dirt, to some extent, and messes up things rather much before the excess have been flung off.
I’m almost finished with fabrication of my own version of chain oiler, for my Scott. All three chains will be served with separate drippers. The drippes can be separately regulated and can be shut of with a common valve. Let’s see how this scheme works out! Some fling is unavoidable, I know, but you don’t need to apply much oil to keep a chain happy.
I have heard that synthetic chainsaw oil should work fine, but I haven’t tested yet. DONT try Bio chainsaw oil as this will turn into a sticky mess!
As with all lubrication matters, little and often is better than much and seldom!
Best regards
Leif