[SwedScott]

Thanks for the advice!

Just to make sure: is the old Champion 16 the same as the more recent D-16? Champion have had so many changes in their numbers so you get easily confused!
Furthermore I noticed one strange thing. The ferrules that holds the spark plugs seems, on my engine, to be counterbored. Under the 1/2″ thread reach the hole is bigger! So fitting a longer reach plug is no good, after some use you probably not get it out due to carbon buildup!

Best regards

Leif

[SwedScott]

[attachment=0:23iexz2n]IMG_0126.JPG[/attachment:23iexz2n]Hi

I made this little tool for the water dome nuts. I was lucky to find a suitable socket made of tube but you might as well use a round tube and weld a big nut on top of if. The purpose of the drawbar that’s screwed into the spark plug hole is to hold down the tool in firm contact with the water dome nut. I also included a spring washer in the setup. Otherwise you can obviously not unscrew a tight dome nut with the tool in place. The spring washer allows you to turn the tool a fraction of a turn without having any actual slack. Maybe overengineering but a rusted and damaged dome nut takes some effort to free!

Regarding corrosion, it’s most often caused by using water only. A 50/50 mix of ethylene glycol (ordinary glycol) and water should keep corrosion away. Be sure that you get a glycol that’s stated safe for aluminium. Don’t use modern propylene glycol or long life type glycol as they are not supposed to be used in old engines.
Always change the glycol mix after two years, as the rust preventing properties does get lost with time, even if you don’t use the bike.
By the way, I was told by an old radiator repairer: Never leave an old radiator stand dry. The hard deposits that always present in old radiator, could crack and later start floating around.

Best regards
Leif

[SwedScott]

Hi again

Well it’s a bit awkward, but just roll down to the bottom of the first page you get to on the VOC website. Right at the bottom of this you’ll find the headline Tech/trade. Click on that and some sub headlines should appear, if you then roll down a bit further. One of those is Trade advertisers. There you will find the fork parts.
If you by any chance come to the page for Velocette technical information just go one step back in the browser and you see the wanted headline at the bottom of the first page.
I really think that this layout of the web site is a bit confusing. I like the “old fashioned” type with the headlines on top, with drop down menus better.

I hope you find it now!

Leif

[SwedScott]

Hi

There is someone that makes the yokes that fits Velocettes anyway. But at a price! Check the Velocette owners club website, at the bottom of the first page you’ll find Tech/trade and under that trade adverts. I have no idea of the quality or anything else about those parts, but I might worth to check out if you’re truely stuck.
If those parts fits a Scott I have no idea of, but the Webb forks fitted to my 1928 TT rep and my Velocette looks very similar.

Best regards

Leif

[SwedScott]

Hi

I have just assembled such a seal in my clutch nut, but forgot to write down the dimensions! Anyway Scottparts can supply you with the wanted item. One thing that I noticed was that the fit of the seal, in my old nut, was a little slack. I guess that this section of the nut wasn’t made to any tolerance, as it was supposed to contain felt. Just stick the seal to the nut with something suitable, I used a little Hylomar inside the nut. It’s easy to think that the fit is good just because there is some resistance when the seal passes the threads. A good practice is to tape up the splines on the main shaft to avoid damaging the seals lips. And the spring side of the seal should always be towards the oily side.

I hope that this info can help you
Leif

[SwedScott]

Thanks Bernie

As a customer by Scottparts I’ve noticed that, and if you search for Scottparts on YouTube there is even more.
I think that Richard does a great job supplying both parts and information.

Best regards
Leif

[SwedScott]

Hi

The tip of using a reed switch is very innovative. I even had to google what a reed switch is.
And Martin’s explanation of why Scott and Velocette seems to go along well with each other is very good.
One might add that Scott used the Harold Willis positive stop mechanism.
And at one time spares for Scott gearboxes was made by Velocette (according to Rod Burris).

I eventually found some ready solution but it seemed a little oversized to fit under the tank.

But during the day I might have cooked up a plan that don’t cost me more than a couple of pounds, and do not require too much work. I’ll try to send some pictures if it turns out well. I have to go and buy some things first, although.

Thanks for the response

Leif

[SwedScott]

Hi

Well, bikes are just like people. Some do always do a certain thing and some never does it!
A Velocette colleague fitted a tap to his newly rebuilt Viper and, when I asked him, he told me that he would never forget that tap! A year or two later I spoke with a man, who was then dealing in Velocette part. Just by chance we were talking about oil taps. He told me that the man, who was so positive about never forgetting, had ordered parts that should be sufficient to fix a major seizure! Never trust your or anybody else’s memory too much!

Seem to be a quite a few of us that has both Scotts and Velocettes, one can wonder why?!

Best regards

Leif

[SwedScott]

Hi

Scottparts offers several varieties from blank castings to fully finished and with different offsets.
Check on Scottparts website for details.
I bought one and I’m very satisfied that I could get a new. My old one was rotten through!

Best regards
Leif

[SwedScott]

Hi

Thanks for your answers.
Unfortunately I seem to forget the closing time for internet auctions!
On the other hand I have managed to source all three parts of The Scott Collection, from three booksellers.
I’m eagerly waiting for them to arrive. The statements about expected delivery time when ordering from the net is seemingly optimistic. I recently ordered a reamer for a special job and had the job finished three days before the reamer arrived!

If anybody has any more interesting books, please contact me. I’m also interested in literature about Brooklands racing and interesting motorcycling personalitys from the past. Not necessarily with Scott connections.

Best regards
Leif

[SwedScott]

Hi again

I don’t think that some cog more or less will make any great difference. One thooth will change the drive ratio about 2%.
To put that into perspective modern speedometers are allowed a difference of showing 0% to little (to avoid speeding tickets!) to a whooping 7% too much!
Also take in account that the speedo head is old and might not show exactly right figures, and that that the wheel circumference changes when the tyre wears.
If you have a combination that’s nearly right, at hand, I would advise you to try it before going into a lengthy search for another sprocket.

Best regards
Leif

[SwedScott]

Hi again

Yes 18 teeth could be considered as standard. To quote this article again:
“For all standard needs, the driven wheel has 18 theeth, whether 10 pitch or 12 pitch.”
Note that there exists two pitches of theeth, of which 12 pitch has a smaller diameter. (No dimensions stated.)
They are obviously not comparable with each other.
I think that 49 theet sounds right for 12″ centre height.
I once had my Cowey serviced by an expert (of the old kind, that really where experts), he told me that they could be “fine tuned” to show exact speed. Sadly he passed away years ago, and I know nobody that can service them nowadays.
Again stating the article: “If the head works, leave it alone because the chances are that it won’t ever work again if you interfere with it. In my unfortunate experience, even professionals have got into a dreadful mess with Cowey heads.”

Good luck with your speedos!
Leif

[SwedScott]

Hi

I also have one of those old Coveys and the information I have is a copy of an article in the VMCC magazine years ago.
Stated in that article is: The number of teeth in the driving wheel can always be found by multiplying the distance in inches from the ground to the centre of the wheel by four and adding one to that number.
The author, Ken Shepard, had quoted from Covey’s own instructions.
I hope that this can be of some help for you.

Best regards
Leif

[Author]

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