[SwedScott]

Thanks for the advice!

Best regards
Leif

[SwedScott]

Hi Steven

You’re right, such precious information as YOWL should be treated with respect!!
Sorry can’t help you as I always keeps them, but I hope that somebody that’s not saving everything can help you out!

Best regards
Leif

[SwedScott]

Hi

I found this old post when searching for a way to make sure that the magneto is in line. Well, all is relative, but I think that one should try to make the best of it.
Yes, the alignment of the magneto sprockets also caused me so head scratching! I was thinking about some form of laser pointer, too. But how should one attach such a device? The chain alignment tools that you can buy is placed on a flat surface of the (rear) sprocket. Then you can see the beam along the chain to the other sprocket.
The problem is that the Scott magneto sprocket has hardly any flat surface. This is what I came up with today, simply some straight bar attached to the magneto sprocket. Then you can “rest” this bar against the crankshaft sproket by adjusting the magneto. I think that the included pictures explains the whole thing. The camfer on the crankshaft end is to avid contact with the crankcase. The only snag is that you can’t use this device with the chain in place. On the other hand,once done, you can shribe two lines on the magneto platform, so you can return the magneto in the same place, if you’re forced to remove it.
As I’ve been working with mechanical constructions for forty years, I’ve come to the conclusion that the simplest (=mostly the best!) constructions is the hardest to think up! It’s all too easy to go overboard and adding complications!

Best regards
Leif

[SwedScott]

Hi

I think that, if not driven in extremely dusty conditions, the increased engine wear caused by breathing unfiltered air is not that great. This considering the average low mileage. Most of us doesn’t use our old motorcycles everyday. But in my opinion a flame trap is essential. I have, personally, seen two, beautifully restored, bikes burn to cinders because of carburettor blowback!
I got one of those Amal “filers”, without the insert, for free. I intend to fit some gauze to that, if no better alternative comes up in the mean time.
If there is no thread on the carburettor maybe one could fit one of those modern conical or cylindrical air cleaners with rubber backside and hose clip. They come in a surprisingly variety of sizes. Might look a bit out of place, but they are mostly not that eye catching.

Best regards
Leif

[SwedScott]

Hi everybody!

Greetings from Sweden.
By the way, I know of just six Scott motorcycles in Sweden, of wich two are working. I’m working to get mine working!

A very merry Christmas and a happy new year to all of you.

Leif

[SwedScott]

Hi Kevin

Good work, it looks really smashing! The paint job is an eye-catcher!
Two things (at least) puzzled me a bit. Is it a 2” right hand exhaust pipe, and was this special for the Reynolds special, as to say? And I was also intrigued by the front forks, never seen one of those, i think.

Best regards

Leif

[SwedScott]

Hi

Have you tried Hagon Wheels? They knew what I needed for my Scott. I was very satisfied with their service.
One thing to remember although, is that if you will use the existing rims, a sample might be a good idea anyway. This because of rims from different manufacturers seems to have slightly different profile and the height of the dimples can also vary a little bit. This can lead to either a little bit long or short spokes when ordering without a sample of the actual spoke.

Best regards
Leif

[SwedScott]

Thank you Paul.

I suspected before that it was like in your answer. But it’s funny that the parts look the way they do, with room for some kind of seal. Not a great surprise, anyway, because it’s not always that form follows function!
I although doubt that they used a sealed bearing. I have never come across any sealed bearing on any old motorcycle that I have laid my hands upon. The good old felt seals seem to have survived long in the motorcycle industry.

Best regards
Leif

[SwedScott]

Hi

Interesting that you get no spark at retard. Something is definitely amiss. Even a “just working” magneto should produce a feeble spark when retarded.
A simple check of the magneto internal timing is that the breaker should open a little bit AFTER the maximum magnetic pull is felt, when rotating the armature. Never earlier and not spot on the maximum pull. For more information there is a good article in Scott Technicalities, written by Don Hewitt. But for a little check in the workshop the simple test above is all one needs. I have seen so many magnetos that’s just thrown together for selling, so I always assume that they’re wrong until proved otherwise!

Good luck with your investigation!
Leif

[SwedScott]

Hi again

Yes, I must admit that it more and more sounds like a carburettor problem. I came to think about when I helped a friend to start his newly renovated BSA. With a newly overhauled AMAL carb it took rivers of sweat to get it started, and it wouldn’t pick up revs. In desperation the old tatty Gurtner (german AMAL copy) that was fitted when he bought the bike was refitted. And to our great surprise the BSA was running sweet as a nut!
You’re probably on the right track with trying to borrow a carb that’s tested and OK.
As one man told me: as long there is spark and petrol any old engine should start. And I myself could add: petrol in somewhat near right quantities!
I have never tried a Binks carb, so I can not give any advice about that subject.

Good luck with the experiments!
Leif

[SwedScott]

Hi

As i fiddeled a bit with magnetoes I think that i can trow in a few bits. In some cases you overlook the most obvious, no offence I have been there several times myself!
The first thing is in wich direction is full advance? Is it with slack wire or with the lever pulled back? In many cases it’s with slack wire on BTH and with lever pulled back on Lucas. But if the magneto has been converted to run the opposite way around it could be the other way. And it can been “born” that way, too.
Look from the breaker side of the magneto. If the cam rings moves, when you pull the lever back, in the same direction as the breaker plate rotates. Then you’ll have full advance with slack wire, and opposite.

Regarding weaker sparks on retard: All manual magnetos are that way. The internal timing is at its best at full advance.
(But on the automatic advance magnetos the armature turn, so they’re always in the best spark position.) The most awkward work for a magneto is slow speed at full retard. If it don’t miss a spark there, it’s probably OK.

Best regards

Leif

[SwedScott]

Hi

I do all my magneto and dynamo work myfself, exept rewinding. Therefore I have only bought parts from Dave Lindsey. This service has been faultless. I can only judge from this!

I have myself cut new groves in cam rings, and the tricky bit is to get them in the right place, as pointed out earlier. Really needs to be done in a machine.

It was some time ago I worked on a magdyno, but couldn’t be so that a new plunger that hooks into the camring could restore operation? This of course without seeing this actual case. I have not yet seen a groove in a camring that’s so worn that it’s not usable.

Best regards and good luck!

Leif

[SwedScott]

Hi

Have you tried Dave Lindsey? Excellent service and very knowledgeable. Easy to find on the “net” also: https://davelindsley.co.uk

Best regards

Leif

[SwedScott]

Hi

After adding panniers to my Velocette l found it almost impossible to heave it up on the rear stand. No room to put my legs in their usual positions. This is my little solution to make it somewhat easier. Add a folding passenger footrest to one of the rear stand legs. No magic cure, but it sure makes things easier.

Best regards
Leif

[SwedScott]

Hi Barrie

Do you think that there will be no carbon buildup in the little space between the plug thread and the hole? The thread in the ferrule is only 1/2″ long, and the rest is just a plain hole until it reaches the combustion chamber. Is it that way it was always made? I have not had a close look at it before, I imagined that there should be a long thread in the ferrule (under the soot). But I had a close look today and it’s like described above.

Best regards
Leif

[Author]

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