[SwedScott]

Hi Olaf

Antifreeze, if you dont need it, is not ideal because it makes the cooling a bit less effective. Furthermore glycol spills can harm paintwork. Pure destilled water is no good as its rather acid in reaktion!

My choise is to use water taken from a dehumifier and give it a correct dose of a corrosion inhibitor. In my case Delo XLI. There are also other brands wich are designed for cooling systems.

Best regards

Leif

[SwedScott]

Hi Douglas

You’re probably right. The previous skim had most likely (almost) gone through the case hardening. It’s better to take a very light skim, about one to two thou  cutting depth and leave any remaining small marks, just to save the surface hard “skin”. Good luck with the replacement! By the way; if an ordinary file just skids of the material it’s very hard, if it bites a little, very reluctantly, the material is hard. No real science, but what to do without proper measuring equipment?!

Best regards, Leif

[SwedScott]

Hi Douglas

I don’t know what equipment you have but it’s possible to turn the affected area with a VERY sharp and sharp pointed hard metal bit. Then this area can then be stoned and polished. This requires naturally an undersized bush. I’ve done this operation on my sleeve gear, wich at first glance looked hopeless. I my case i also had to machine the flat area wich bears on the bush. This required a “stepped” bush to get things in line again. As long as the cogs, splines and the thread is okay  it’s salvageable. It might not last forever but the sleeve seems pretty hard even after machining, if just a minimal amount is machined off. A replacement would be easier although!

Best regards, Leif

[SwedScott]

Hi Peter

The innermost, thinner, plates controls when the “claws” goes in and out. The outer, thicker plates distribute the movement of the housing and the “claws” to the gear change linkage. It’s been a while since I fiddled with those bits, but as far as I remember the lower edges of the thinner plates notches are rounded. Jumping out of gear can be caused by that the linkage is maladjusted, so the mechanism is pushing or pulling the arm, attached to gearbox too far or too short. I think that the adjustment procedure is described in “Technicalities”. Worn ball links in the linkage can give give “lost motion”, so the ball bearing misses the appropriate hole in the indent plate mounted on the gearbox shell. The indent plate itself could also be worn. And there is also the possibility for “lost motion” within the gearbox itself. Furthermore the power transmitting “dogs” within the gearbox could be too rounded by wear. And of course the ball bearing should be of the right size and its spring should be okay. Actually a quite crude mechanism, but it works well, if everything is in order. Check the adjustment and the outside bits first before contemplating anything else.

Best regards and good luck! Leif

[SwedScott]

Hi,

There is also another explanation for jumping out of gear. I had a hard time to get the gear change right on my three speeder. This eventually lead to that I made a new indent plate. When fabricating this (only got it right on the third attempt!) I realised that there is a very fine line between not engaging properly and that the sleeve gear is pressing hard on the bush in the gearbox housing. A “simple” test (you have to get the clutch off first!) is to try pull the sleeve gear out, with third gear engaged, as far as it goes and then push it in again. If it moves more than about 2 mm, the engagement is VERY marginal. This is probably caused by wear on the internal parts of the gearbox. If it don’t move either way it’s pressing on the bush and both parts will wear. Furthermore I had to make another indent plate when I installed a vintage close gear cluster! To describe the whole procedure would require a whole article in Yowl. Might write that some day!

I hope that the simpler solutions described works for you!

Best regards, Leif

 

[SwedScott]

Hi Steve

I just read in the October issue of Classic Bike that a missing, oily or otherwise defect earth brush can give just the symptoms you described. I’ve never come across that fault, but one learns something new each day!

Best regards, Leif

[SwedScott]

Hi Steve
<p style=”text-align: left;”>it’s a long shot, but try to remove the central shrew on the breaker plate and clean all oxidation from it. Normally much oxidation on the central shrew does affect the magneto function generally, but it’s worth a try. Just a little WD 40 on the shrew before installing don’t hurt.</p>
Best regards, Leif

[SwedScott]

Hi Frank

I have some parts that you might be interested in:

A complete, right hand side, exhaust system. The nickel plating is not perfect and there is the almost obligatory mark from the kickstarter on the pipe. But it’s not bad, no rust or big scratches.

One original foot change pedal that’s 20 mm longer than the one that’s fitted on my Scott. It’s 190 mm long centre to centre. Might suit big foots!

If you’re interested:

I understand the German language quite well but my German writing isn’t perfect. I you could supply me with your email address I could try to continue in German, if you can bear with my German grammar!

Mit freundlichen Grüßen!

Leif (aus Schweden)

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[SwedScott]

Hi

I really like to recycle things rather than throwing them away. Here’s my route holder!

Best regards

Leif

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[SwedScott]

Hi Dave

If the difference between “to clamp or not to clamp“ is small, I usually cut a strip from an aluminium beer/soda can and roll it to a ring. This ring can be placed between the clamps and bar (avoid overlapping the ring).
SOFT aluminium is good to use for shims in some other applications too, as the ally surfaces adjust to the surfaces it squeezed between, and grips very well.

Best regards

Leif

 

 

[SwedScott]

Hi Keith

As the saying goes, it’s hard to judge a book by its cover. The pair of AC 84 also have an uncommonly long centre electrode. I also have one AC 84-M (the marine version with nickel plated body) this one have a much more conventional centre electrode! Must have something to do with the internal construction, I think.

Best regards

Leif M

[SwedScott]

Hi Keith

Neat job to shorten the insulator without cracking the whole thing! Watch out for overheating although because of the diminished surface area. But according to a one of my old books AC 87 could be a bit softer than Champion D21. Say could, as different old lists translate heat ranges differently. I did rummage through my little stock of NOS plugs as I remembered that I have a pair of AC’s. Unfortunately they turned out to be AC 84 wich is three steps cooler, so to say.

I suppose that you have a radiator with neck, otherwise with a tunnel radiator it’s possible to raise the radiator. This by making an offset upper bracket and substitute the lower screw with a rubber cushion that the radiator rests on. By doing this I even got place for proper plug caps.

By the way, I don’t think there are any other plugs shorter than the the AC ones. Can’t remember seeing any.

Best regards and good luck!

Leif

[SwedScott]

I was a member of the VMCC many years ago but let my membership expire due to the continuous infighting in that club, at that time. I have no idea of how the situation is in the VMCC today. But I know that the SOC is a wonderful club, trough wich I have met a lot of friendly and helpful people. Some have become firm personal friends.
Let’s keep yowling on in our own pace! Many thanks to all the people that runs the club!

Best regards, Leif

P.S. Please support our own forum!! D.S.

 

[SwedScott]

Hi Keith

When I look closely at the front brake plate it looks very much like the BSA 7” one that was fitted on the B31/B33 models around 1950. I remembered it well since I, quite a number of years ago, renovated a BSA B33, 1951 model. Could be that the whole wheel was adopted from a BSA. From what I remember it’s  a decent brake and it blends well into the picture on your Scott, so nothing wrong with that. If anyone should know better about the brakes origins, please correct me!

Best regards, Leif

[SwedScott]

Hi again

The brass taps with conical sealing are alright, as long as you have some oil in the petrol, doesn’t need to be much. Without oil they are horrible, with today’s “dry” petrol.

Light sieze marks can be polished away with paste chrome polish, as Autosol. Don’t use anything coarser, as valve grinding paste. Just put some paste polish liberally on the cone and work the tap back and forth until satisfied. Big sieze marks = metal recycling bin!

Best regards, Leif

[Author]

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