[Ted Robinson]

@eyeguy wrote:

Hi Mike
thank you for your nice comments. I use a premix in the tank and it has an integral filling cup that slots inside the filler cap. This is charged by opening the tap on the spigot! It also has twin drip feeders o the bottom end.

Carl, the longer plugs you recommended have transformed starting, if it’s dry tomorrow it’s off to Kempton with a yowl.

ATG

Paul

Hi Paul,
Scotts recommended 14mm short reach plugs KLG or champion L7. If you use a long reach 3/4″ it protrudes 0.26″ through the head and the threads clog up with carbon. This can cause problems when you come to remove the plugs and may even strip the threads.
I have used Champion L88A or L90 short reach plugs in my 1949 for the last 25 years without any problems, I buy these from The Green sparkplug man at Autojumbles for about £3 a pair.

Best wishes Ted.

[Ted Robinson]

Eric, When you took the crankcase door off did you actually see water in the crankcase or an excess of fuel or oil? Best wishes Ted.

[Ted Robinson]

Hi,Brian, The postwar manual for the engine,gearbox and lubrication is the same as a Birmingham Scott.The idea of the crankcase wells is to retain oil to lubricate the big ends on initial start up this is exactly the same as a two stroke with petroloil lube.Don’t drain the wells after a run. If you see a Scott with transparent oil pipes you will see the oil flowing into the engine in beads,it looks just like a chain it certainly is’nt just a smear on the walls of the pipe.If you want to get oil through the mains and into the big ends you can disconnect the oil pipes to the engine at the pump push on a length of rubber hose ,blow down it with your mouth, slowly rotate the engine until you feel the pressure release you now know that the hole in the gland is in line with the hole in the main bearing cup, pump oil in with an oil can and repeat on the other side.Take great care with the connections on the pump as the threads are easily stripped. If you have rotated the engine before you drained the wells there should be oil on the bearings I would put a drop of oil down each plug hole,fill the bowls on the pump open the adjusters half a turn and start the engine and not bother about the oil can bit. Colin 2 spits & a drop will be the same regardless of the RPM of the pump and not equivalent 4 spits & a drop at engine speed. Best wishes Ted.

[Ted Robinson]

@philpjuk wrote:

Many years ago when I was told about ep oils being not compatible with yellow metal bearings I half filled a jamjar with ep 90 and placed a handful of brass bronze oilite and other bushes,this was between 30 and 40 years ago,the jamjar has moved house with me several times and has been on a shelf in my garage and been shaken ocasionaly,the bushes seem as good now as when they were put in but the tin jam jar lid is now quite rusty and the oil smells terrible(I think it did when I put it in!)I also mixed some castrol R and some viscostatic multigrade in annother jar and this has now turned into a nasty pink jelly!phil p-j.

Hi Brian, I can assure you if EP OILS are used you will eat away the bronze bushes, both Castrol and Morrison’s will confirm this if you get in touch with them. Use a monograde 50 engine oil. The only way to drain the gearbox is to remove the end cover and clean it properly,if you try sucking it out with a syringe or other means you will still leave any gunge or other sedement in the bottom. I personally would not bother if Alfred had meant you to change the gear oil he would have fitted a drain plug. If you get a Bruce Mainsmith photo copy hand book for a postwar Shipley model it will tell you all you need to know. Best wishes Ted Robinson.

[Ted Robinson]

@rhixon wrote:

Hello all!! Our 47 Flyer has a brass radiator with a number plate from Northern Radiator in Leeds. There’s not a hint of chrome plate on it anywhere. Did the postwar Shipleys come with this brass radiator, or were they originally chrome-plated?

All the postwar scotts I saw about in the fifty’s had chrome radiators,I still have the original one for my 1949 Scott and that is chrome. If yours is a honeycomb it is from an earlier model as postwar were film type. It may have been stripped by reverse plating for a repair and not replated. A lot of platers were reluctant to plate them as they often finished up leaking like a sieve. Northern Radiators still exist and advertise a fuel tank Re-Nu service Tel.01132435051(taken from Practical Classics 2005) Best wishes Ted.

[Ted Robinson]

Hello Erik, Glad to see you have made progress with the wiring.
1.5mm2 would be adequate even at 10 amps. I don’t know how efr215
calculated 0.9 volt drop over a 10ft.length it would be approx 0.33volts.
The longest run is less than 5ft so the v.drop would only be 0.16volts @ 6volts, with the engine running the voltage at the battery is 7.2 volts so the difference would be negligable.If you run a separate earth wire you can ignore the v.drop in this because you have a parallel cicuit through the frame. Best wishes Ted.

[Ted Robinson]

Hi, Robert,Iclicked on the link to have a look at your Scott, clicked on
“GMX Mediacenter starter” I get the three small pictures up ok but when Iclick on the picture to enlarge it the screen goes blank. I have tried ticking the box but still a blank screen, what am I doing wrong?
Best wishes Ted.

[Ted Robinson]

Hello Ian, The distance between the centres on my 1949 scott is 23.25 ins.
approx. Also I have a twin filler tank with the same measurement,so if yours is the same it would fit a 1948. Hope this helps,Ted Robinson.

[Ted Robinson]

Hello Paul, Are your forks leaking air or is it just the grease oozing out that you are concerned about as this is normal. You only need a very small amount to lubricate the bottom sliders. Dowty Forks are made by the same firm that make Oleo legs for aircraft and are well engineered and very strong. I have a photo somewhere showing a Scott that had collided with a van, the forks were not damaged but the frame was badly bent. I have owned my 1949 Scott for 25 years and never had any problems with the forks. I was told the secret is to makesure you keep them topped up with oil. best wishes Ted.

[Ted Robinson]

@Richard Moss wrote:

and i dont know why we all forgot that we can attach replies and comments to the same post without dominating the forum ..like i seem to have with this exhaust thing..
but i apologise to anyone to whom this is an issue.
not intentional..

Hi Richard,
Your picture shows the correct silencer for a 1949 Scott. It should have a perforated tube down the inside and no baffles. Just cut the body 2ins. from the end, make a sleeve to go into the short end braze or weld in position then fix the other end with 3 self tappers. You can then repack as Dave Bushell suggests.
Best wishes Ted Robinson.

[Ted Robinson]

Hello Alex.

MY 1949 Scott is fitted with a pilgrim pump that has lock nuts on the adjusters. I fitted a pair of Gerry Howards steel end cam plates in about 1983, set the adjusters, locked up the lock nuts and have not touched it since.
The main trouble with the pumps is that over the years they have been stripped down that many times, mostly out of curiosity,as I did in my youth with my first Scott,that the threads strip. I have fitted 1/4BSP nipples through side of the crancase so that I can remove the crancase door complete with pump without disconnecting the pipes at the pump.
Gerry Howard used to convert pilggrims to drip feed with no movig parts and then use petrol oil to lubricate the top end. I think Ged Rumble wrote an article in Yowl a few years ago explaining how it is done. It is probably in technicalities. If the movin parts on your pump are U/S why not consider this option? The pump must be the most lubricated part on the Scott so should last for ever so long as the monkey metal case and end cams dont give up.
Best wishes Ted Robinson.

[Ted Robinson]

Roger,
There are no spacers on the brake plate assembly.The spindle is 17mm.
dia.with a 0.750 ins. dia.shoulder on the LH.end this passes through the
LH.fork leg LH. brake plate ,hub bearings ,RH. brake plate and screws
into the RH.fork leg. When the spindle is tightened the shoulder butts onto
the steel insert on the LH.plate and clamps the whole assembly to the RH. fork leg. First nip up the spindle then slacken half a turn apply the front brake, while the brake is on lock up the spindle this centralises the shoes
to the drums then as Stan said bounce the forks up and down a couple of
times to align the forks and tighten up the 5/16″ unf. bolt on the LH. fork
leg clamp and job done. If the hub bearings have been assembled correctly the wheel will rotate freely.
Best wishes Ted Robinson.

[Ted Robinson]

Hello Jan
Roy Price. 14 Heron Court, ST Neots,Cambs. PE19 1TH.
Tel. 01480 473225
Stocks all spares for the DKX1 & DKX2 Distributors.
Including Reconditioned Units.
Best wishes Ted Robinson.

[Author]

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