Did it again.mikes dot oldvelo dot bikes at Gmail dot com. Try that.
email@example.com. It seemed to miss the details off the post so I will try again.
Hi Matt. I got a pair for mine from Michael Lane-Spouge in Brum. Email firstname.lastname@example.org
Hi Edward. I have searched high and low for him and don’t seem to be able to locate him. Have you got anything that nails him down please?
Hi Keith. I can sympathise with your non starting. I have had a few episodes of this checking and rechecking things. I would do a compression test to establish it is getting something like 100+ psi in each pot and if this is OK, check the crankcase door and transfer port covers are sealing well (I have used grinding paste on the part where the cover fits) and then pour a decent amount of oil into the crankcases via the transfer port when they are off. Personally I have never really known my bike ever complain about too much oil as long as you are not stupid. It should now start and continue to run and unless there is something really wrong with it the other things tend to fine tune the running.
When you release the strap holding the crankcase doors on, and it has been running, the doors should not fall off as I discovered mine used to. This highlighted the fact that they were still leaking slightly. The doors will blow off under compression when you kick it over and this is how you want them to fit.
Everyone’s experiences seem to differ though!
Thanks Edward. Not looked at the forum for a bit.
I gave myself a true headache in trying to run the bike on straight 40 through the pilgrim pump and help things with silkolene comp 2 in the petrol. The result was that the rings ended up totally seized in the pistons and my compression was zero after 200 miles. I knew oils did not mix, vegetable and mineral, but not two stroke and four stroke. I run a good 2 stroke oil throughout now and generously too.
Sold it for 100 quid on gumtree which is a good place to buy and sell things I find.
Hi Tom. I have had brain freeze on a few occasions when starting my bike after a rebuild and thought that the problem was X when it was Y. To my unlearned eye it was also hard to know which timing mark works for which lead and whether pushing the timing lever away from the bike was full advance or not. They seem simple things now but as a modern bike person it was new to me.
I set my timing to 5/16 BTDC and usually there is a mark on the flywheel there from previous owners. The mag should be on full advance when you set the timing, if the points end of the mag is on the left side of the bike, and full advance is when the mag is the furthest point clockwise. On my bike I pull the lever towards me and the mag arm is on the left to set it.
I have taken the transfer ports off before and poured quite a bit of oil into the crankcase. As far as I understand this provides the seal to get the suction from the crankcase to pull the fuel in.
Air leaks are from where the carb bolts on to the engine as the ears tend to bend if done up too tight (I had to grind mine flat), the transfer port doors and the crankcase doors which I remove, put a smidge of fine grinding paste on and fit them that way with a rag stuffed inside to capture any rogue paste. And a final gasket. If you undo the bolt and remove the crankcase door strap and the door falls off on its own accord it is not sealing. It should take a kick or two to blow the doors off.
Fuel height, don’t know for your bike but if your plug is wet then I would say that there is enough fuel for starting and that I am inclined towards saying that fuel height affects running more than starting as long as you actually have fuel. You could set you float bowl in its highest position by rotating it backwards to ensure there is indeed enough fuel if you like, but as a last resort. What about sticking the plugs in the flame of the gas cooker and then trying it then. Does pouring a capful of petrol down the plughole do anything? Do you have a sodding great hill nearby?
Air screw 1 turn out and see how it runs once started and make sure that the slide in the carb is fully down to the screw as a stuck open slide will mean there is too much air for it to start. I had this on my Yam at the weekend on one side and the cable had come out of its locating sleeve because it needed lubricating.
Saying all that, it is likely to be none of those. If you remove the plugs and earth them on the frame does it spark?
Apologies if all that sounds like I am insulting your intelligence and knowledge Tom and I hope that what I have written is right in the first place! These are the things that have flummoxed me before. Sounds like you have good compression anyway.
Thanks Richard and I will visit Barnet when I have been through a few more things. As for the different spring length Dave, well that might explain it. My steering races on the frame measure 8 inches ball to ball and the suspension part on the forks measures 10 1/2 inches button to button. The fat part of the suspension is 6 1/4 inches and I have a loose main spring that measures just over 6 1/2 inches which is quite bouncy. If you stick that spring into the fat part of the shock absorber I can’t imagine there would be much room for any springing of any sort and my own bike is pretty solid an affair.
How do these dimensions compare with yours Dave or others folk’s please?
How long are the mainsprings and is there a choice. Mine should be around 6 inches me thinks to offer any degree of bounce.
Thanks Gents. I gather from the replies that there is no mysterious and usually encountered gremlim I should be looking out for then.
The next thing then is to check what I have against what I should have. Since I am not running out of thread on the spindle it must be the fitment of the ball in the cups. The steering turns without being notchy at all so I will have a look at the balls themselves. I know the bike was stripped completely before I had it and I would say that the cups would be a less likely /easy thing to renew than the balls during any renovation.
You can see a lot of ball when the arrangement is supposedly tight, to the point where I suspect that they might fall out. OK thanks for the feedback. the picture is becoming clearer.
Gents. I have always thought that the Isle of Man Classic Event would be a great, although partially impractical, place for the AGM. The Scott marque is always seen as something of a rare and exclusive thing, owned by folks that only ever occasionally use them. Having them turning up all over the island would be a great thing. But not for the environment.
Hi Martin. Thanks very much for that kind offer which I might take you up but Eddie Shermer is sending me a pair over which might be suitable. I see yours has got a spring at the end in the photo. I was thinking of a making a direct drive to the actuator arm but the spring thing might end up as an option depending on how much force is needed. Interesting and thanks again.
Hi Lewis. I might have a close to not leaking radiator for the bike and a ready to go engine for a 1926 if that is any use. Graham has just collected a load of 2 speeder exhaust bits which might fill a gap too. Also have one of those tool boxes with the diagonal side.