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Viewing 15 posts - 1 through 15 (of 34 total)
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  • in reply to: Oil – novice needs help #35982
    willsleddon
    Participant

    Sorry that should have to Iain. I had to have a few Scott lessons to understand that it isn’t what you imagine, but better.

    in reply to: Oil – novice needs help #35981
    willsleddon
    Participant

    I am in Chester on 07531781196 if you want to get in touch. Will.

    in reply to: Oil – novice needs help #35980
    willsleddon
    Participant

    <p style=”text-align: center;”>Hi Chris. I use Putoline 2t in my bike because it is available from my local stockist and I use it in my high revving RDs which do indeed get revved. I also do a 1 to 50 mix in the tank by filling it up and giving a 2 to 3 second squeeze of the same oil in the tank. It smokes and I have recently turned down the pilgrim pump settings to make it less smokey but still with oil passing the pilgrim windows at 1 drop per 7 to 8 seconds when just over Rickover. DO NOT mix 2 stroke with 4 strokes oils as they turn to paste under heat. It is worthwhile knowing that the oil delivery system works by vacuum from the cylinders so any leaks you have will suck air in and not oil and make the mixture weak to boot so if any joints are oily, I would be suspicious. From my experience you can use any 2T synthetic or otherwise and this has applied equally to my Yams which live on the edge. As they should. If the Scott had an outer crank bearing I might be inclined to treat my engine similarly but with two quite big pistons accelerating and decelerating faster than a fluorescent light tube I employ a bit more care, especially as you don’t know how much fatigue the metals of your engine have endured and how long you have got before that endurance reaches finality.</p>

    in reply to: Back brake lever return spring wanted #35322
    willsleddon
    Participant

    Hi Dave. Interesting. Your top picture shows a long lever going down and your brake rod connects to the bottom of this and gives you ample room to clip a return spring on to.

    I am having trouble attaching a photo of my scenario but needless to say that I haven’t got that long downward pointing lever you have (mine is much shorter) and having that would rectify the situation. This is the part I suppose I am after and I can source a spring easily. A bit of welding would sort this out and it is hidden behind the frame…………

    Thanks for that. I can sort something. Will.

     

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    in reply to: Veteran Pistons #35208
    willsleddon
    Participant

    Thanks very much gents. I like the idea of the splitter Glyn as that makes senses and I will be keeping the dimensions standard thanks Lewis. Will.

    in reply to: Two things #35117
    willsleddon
    Participant

    Sorry. You can also try me on 07531781196 or willsleddon@yahoo.com.

    Thanks again.

    in reply to: Kite fork bottom nuts #33445
    willsleddon
    Participant

    Did it again.mikes dot oldvelo dot bikes at Gmail dot com. Try that.

    in reply to: Kite fork bottom nuts #33444
    willsleddon
    Participant

    mikes.oldvelo.bikes@gmail.com. It seemed to miss the details off the post so I will try again.

    in reply to: Kite fork bottom nuts #33443
    willsleddon
    Participant

    Hi Matt. I got a pair for mine from Michael Lane-Spouge in Brum. Email mikes.oldvelo.bikes@gmail.com

    in reply to: 2 speeder drippers #33208
    willsleddon
    Participant

    Thanks both.

    in reply to: 2 speeder drippers #33173
    willsleddon
    Participant

    Hi Edward. I have searched high and low for him and don’t seem to be able to locate him. Have you got anything that nails him down please?

    Ta, Will.

    in reply to: 3 Speed Gearbox Numbers ? #33170
    willsleddon
    Participant

    Hi Keith. I can sympathise with your non starting. I have had a few episodes of this checking and rechecking things. I would do a compression test to establish it is getting something like 100+ psi in each pot and if this is OK, check the crankcase door and transfer port covers are sealing well (I have used grinding paste on the part where the cover fits) and then pour a decent amount of oil into the crankcases via the transfer port when they are off. Personally I have never really known my bike ever complain about too much oil as long as you are not stupid. It should now start and continue to run and unless there is something really wrong with it the other things tend to fine tune the running.

    When you release the strap holding the crankcase doors on, and it has been running, the doors should not fall off as I discovered mine used to. This highlighted the fact that they were still leaking slightly. The doors will blow off under compression when you kick it over and this is how you want them to fit.

    Everyone’s experiences seem to differ though!

    Thanks, Will.

    in reply to: 2 speeder drippers #33146
    willsleddon
    Participant

    Thanks Edward. Not looked at the forum for a bit.

    in reply to: Oil type #32795
    willsleddon
    Participant

    I gave myself a true headache in trying to run the bike on straight 40 through the pilgrim pump and help things with silkolene comp 2 in the petrol. The result was that the rings ended up totally seized in the pistons and my compression was zero after 200 miles. I knew oils did not mix, vegetable and mineral, but not two stroke and four stroke. I run a good 2 stroke oil throughout now and generously too.

    Will.

    in reply to: Elevating bike bench thing #32728
    willsleddon
    Participant

    Sold it for 100 quid on gumtree which is a good place to buy and sell things I find.

Viewing 15 posts - 1 through 15 (of 34 total)