[Ian Parsons]

I would question Roger’s comments on Scott’s published power outputs being fiction and his estimates. I have drawn a graph of a number of motorcycle power outputs and the mean maximum speeds given in the motorcycle press road tests. Most of this information is from tests in the ’50’s and ’60’s. If you accept that the frontal area of most bikes with a rider is similar and that they are correctly geared then there is a very good correlation between power and maximum speed. From this you can determine the approximate power of a bike from its max speed or vice versa.

If I could work out how to insert an Excel graph I would include it here.

However here is some data from the graph
33bhp 95mph
30bhp 90mph
24 bhp 80mph
20bhp 75mph

I have been timed at the following speeds on Scotts at the end of a SS Kilo
498 Short Stroke Flyer 72mph
The same bike with a DPZ engine 84mph
596 Sprint Special 94mph

This would imply that Scott’s published power figures are quite realistic and possibly they have a slightly lower frontal area than the average bike of the post war years.

I await further comments with interest. I am certain that quite a few Scotts with 596 RY or PY engines are good for the low to mid 90’s

[Ian Parsons]

I too have used International Paints Perfection 700 2 Pack Yacht Enamel. It does use isocyanates but I found that if you brush it in a well ventilated garage there is not a problem with fumes. It has a pot life of about 2 hours. The vapour concentration is much less when applied by brush than when sprayed as the solvent concentration is lower. I bought the paint from a Yacht Chandlers and used it on the chassis of my 1924 Alvis 22 years ago. The paint has good self levelling properties and can be rubbed down. The Black is a true black unlike some powder coating that tends to have a greyish sheen.

The Alvis has now travelled over 50000 miles since my rebuild and the paint is still good. It is quite flexible but if chipped corrosion can start underneath the paint. As in all painting good surface preparation is the key to a long lasting finish. The finish itself is dependant upon using good brushes.

[Ian Parsons]

From memory there is a modification mentioned in Technicalities that involves making a new spindle so one can use current plain bore taper roller bearings. The screwed bor ones are v expensive and almost unobtainable

[Ian Parsons]

I have just checked the Book of the Scott and the records of what I have in my Scotts

Main Jet 170
Needle Jet 106
Needle No 6 in middle groove
Slide 3 1/2

I have used these settings in a DPZ engine, a PY engine and also a 498 late 2 speeder without any problems. They are the recommended settings. Late Binks float chambers are identical to Amal and if your Scott starts and idles easily then the float level will be correct. I set the ignition timing at 5/16inch BTDC at fully advanced.

Hope this helps.

[Ian Parsons]

Have you checked your carburettor jets? Which carburettor do you have fitted and are the jets as specified in “The Book of the Scott”.

I would suggest that spitting back under load is an indication of mixture weakness or air leaks so also check carburettor and transfer port gaskets.

[Ian Parsons]

My 1929 2 Speeder needs a flood from cold and or 7 kicks to start. This is typically after it has been standing for 3 weeks or so. When warm or hot it always starts 1st kick without any need for tickling. I wonder if your mixture is on the rich side? What carburettor do you have? I use an AMAL type 6 with the same settings as a 3 speed Flying Squirrel. I do not use any special stopping procedure. I just close the throttle and use the ingnition cut out to stop the engine.
The float chamber level is always worth checking. Does your engine idle smoothly when warm?

[Ian Parsons]

You do not say whether you have a 2 Speed or a Flying Squirrel/TT Rep frame. In both case the Frame No is on the headstock lug.

On the 2 Speed it is on the top surface of the side car mounting boss on the headstock.

On the FS/TT Rep frames it is on the nearside of the headstock lug. It can get filled in by paint. It is also not unknown for it to be defaced, restamped or removed to hide a change of frame.

[Ian Parsons]

I believe that the finish should be the lacquered finish. I have achieved a good reproduction of this finish on my 1930 2 Speeder. The first requirement is to obtain a near polished finish on the cast iron by using ever finer grades of Wet & Dry Paper ending up with 1200 grade. The block is then ready for lacquering.

Buy a tube of Alizarin Crimson from an oil paint supplies shop, and mix a few drops of this with some clear polyurethane varnish. This will give a crimson lacquer. You will need to experiment on a sample surface to determine how much to add to get the desired finish. I gave my block a couple of coats. The finish should last about 5 to 10 years but some rusting can start under the lacquer near the water dome.

[Ian Parsons]

I believe this Scott is a 1924 2 Speed Squirrel. It is known to the Register. John Underhill, the Machine Registrar, may have the present owner’s name.

[Ian Parsons]

Hi Paul,
I use a 3.00 x 20 block tread tyre on the back of my 2 Speeder. The first tyre was a VTS Brand which lasted about 4000 miles, soft rubber but excellent grip. I now have a Waymaster which is identical. This has done about 1500 miles so far. I cannot remember where I bought the Waymaster. On the Front I use a 3.00 x 20 Avon ribbed which hardly wears at all. Avons are not commonly available and Avon make batches from time to time. The Vincent Club may stock them.

[Ian Parsons]

There is a 1929 Flying Squirrel registered WX 543 still on the machine register. I believe it is in Canada. I have details of the Frame and Engine No. It is recorded as having a Velocette rear wheel and a foot change.

[Ian Parsons]

I have thought about getting a Stainless Steel 2″ LH Exhaust made for my TT Replica. This is to avoid problems with rust after several years use. There are companies in Nottingham who specialise in SS Exhausts for cars. I will investigate further and let you know.

[Ian Parsons]

Do not forget to publicise in the Glossy mags and in OBM the date of the National Rally at Stanford Hall.

Perhaps we also ought to try to get a group of Scotts to VMCC Founders Day, 25th July at Stanford Hall, and arrange to park in one Spot.

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