[Ian Parsons]

My 498cc 1930 model 2 Speed Sports Squirrel has the larger inlet stub. Since 1993 I have been running with an Amal 276/455R body with a 170 main jet. 6/3 Slide and 106 needle jet. I use the original Amal nickel plated bottom feed float chamber and bell mouth. It goes very well although does 4 stroke on part throttle and light load in Low. It pulls really nicely in High. I got the carburettor body from Jim Plant who bought all the old stock Amal spares many years ago and he told me it was for a Vincent but I do not know which model.

According to the Scott Sales Ledger it originally had an Amal DD4948 carburettor but that doesn’t mean anything to me.

[Ian Parsons]

I have used fine grinding paste to lap the crankshaft seals in the past. A fine matt finish on the cup and gland was obtained.

I would be wary of lapping in the flywheel tapers as you could end up with too little end-float.

[Ian Parsons]

Current owner not know. Last taxed 2007-8 New V5C issued 2011. All this from the DVLA website.

 

[Ian Parsons]

I have a recollection that when I rebuilt my 1929 Flyer in about 1981 or 82 I used Percival Brothers and Webb in Birmingham to re-bush the Webb forks. I believe that Chris Williams who bought Alpha Bearings then bought the business.

[Ian Parsons]

My 1930 model 2 Speeder is on 20″ wheels. I use a 3.00 x 20 Avon ribbed Speedmaster Mk II on the front and a 3.00 x 20 Mitas  H-02 studded on the rear. Unfortunately the Mitas is no longer available although Mitas still have the mould. They need a large order to consider re manufacture according to their UK agent. The only studded alternative is the VTS made in the Far East which does not have such a good rubber compound but is quite soft.

I changed the front tyre after about 8000 miles due to its age. Rear tyres seem to last about 4000 miles. I run 17 psi in the front and 24 psi in the back tyre.

[Ian Parsons]

This run is organised by the Sunbeam Motorcycle Club for pre 1940 motorcycles. You do not have to be a Sunbeam MCC member to enter. There is normally a good selection of Scotts on the run and is a great opportunity to meet with like minded enthusiasts. This year the event is starting from Great Brington, Northants, and is a new route of 40 miles in the morning and 30 in the afternoon through really attractive Northamptonshire countryside and villages.

[Ian Parsons]

The difficulty is that the optimum starting settings for an individual Scott are best determined by the owner as machines do vary. As I said I would not start a cold engine on full advance and equally not full retard. The magneto gives a stronger spark on full advance than full retard and a good spark helps fire the cold mixture which may go to explain why an engine needs more advance when cold starting. The sweet spot is determined by the owner and experience. My 2 Speeder likes lots of throttle when starting cold but when warm only a touch. 7 or 8 kickstarts when cold but only one when warm. Again it depends on the condition of the crankcase seals and the mixture has to get from the carburettor into the crankcase and up to the combustion chamber. All quite different from a 4 stroke, there is a lot of volume on a Scott to get the mixture in on a cold engine that hasn’t been run for a while.

[Ian Parsons]

Like many others I use 5/16″ before TDC for the fully advanced timing on my magneto. I have used this setting on various Scotts for over 45 years from a 1926 Super, a Flyer, a TT Rep and my 1930 2 Speeder.
I find that with a cold engine I have the mag nearly fully advanced for starting but it must be fully retarded when the engine is warm. I have also noticed this on my vintage cars. I think it is possibly due to a slower burn with a cold engine and poorer fuel vapourisation. Starting a warm engine on full advance is the way to ruin!
Once running I tend to leave the setting on full advance. I do retard the ignition slightly at lower revs on a hill but truthfully have not really noticed much difference from full advance. All my engines have been on standard compression ratios so the octane rating of modern petrol is more than sufficient and I have never noticed pre-ignition. I do now tend to run on Super Unleaded fuel but again have not really noticed any difference from ordinary unleaded.

[Ian Parsons]

From the description of the block I think it has had a 2 Speeder block fitted as that is the only one with a centre exhaust port. All Duplex framed Scotts have a twin outlet as far as I know. More details of the bike would help.

[Ian Parsons]

I shall not be able to come as I will be in London on Sunday

[Ian Parsons]

I have had difficulties in starting a newly rebuilt engine and a Scott that I had not used for some years. In both cases the crankshaft seals were not doing their job so there was minimal inlet suction. A really long push with one Scott and a long descent down a hill got them running. After running for a little while both bikes became easy starters. People often think that good compression is a sign of a good engine but overlook the importance of crankcase suction.

[Ian Parsons]

Hello Stuart, I am pleased you have found a Scott. This Scott has been on the Register since 1999 and as it has Scott forks was probably a Flying Squirrel De Luxe Model. It may not have the original engine which was probably numbered about 2550 – 2600. The VMCC Library has the Scott despatch records and will be able to give you a transcript of the original specification. UV is a London issued Reg No but the London CC records have been destroyed so it is not possible to discover original owners.

[Ian Parsons]

Looks very nice. It is good to be able to add your ownership to the Register.

[Ian Parsons]

Chris, I have sent you a pm

[Ian Parsons]

I think the frame is S 1218 it’s 1959, originally had engine DMS2015 which is now in another Birmingham Scott. The Reg No I have is not on the DVLA. It has been unheard of for very many years.

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