lewis onionsIf you do find a source please let me know as I could do with the same parts myself !
lewis onionsMore news on the horn front. I have contacted Lynn Isaac aka Taff the Horns via his website (http://www.taffthehorns.com) and he has provided a rapid and interesting response, part of which I will reproduce here:
The Scott was the only Brit Bike to actually use one of the New Jersey Registered fm 1909 Klaxon outfit’s Klaxon KIFO. these were produced for Europe in France fm circa 1930 right up to the 2nd WW, the Registered office 1 Ru de Rue, when after WW2 the French tried to raise hard currency, it was opposed vehemently by all BRITISH Manufacturers & Klaxon Kifo had to be imported to Claude Rye Deeprose Marble Arch Elrico Hobday & Pride & Clark, for sale as Desmo, & Prima in USA for a fraction of what a Lucas Altette costs, they were better hooters too albeit not as hermetically resilient to weather!. their Import Reg was Holland Park London W1, rarely can the old brass tab be found so a London one may be needed.Lynn (or Taff) has KIFO parts available from which he can build 6v Scott horns, although I do not have a price at present. He is quoting 4 months to complete but does not require payment until after dispatch, receipt and approval of a horn.
In passing Lynn has some other very interesting sites concerning vintage racing in Wales , which I can recommend as completely absorbing. The sites can be accessed via the horn site and that concerning sand racing includes at least one picture of a Scott at races on Oxwich Sands in the late 20’s.
lewis onionsAh ! I had let myself get carried away a bit there – but rewinding/re construction might be an option. Alternatively I will go along with what Erik has to say and fit it merely for show. Then I suppose that I will have to carry on fitting my one servicable bulb horn to this bike (and each of my bikes alternatively) at MOT times !!
lewis onionsAbsolutely incredible, thank you. Watch the bidding develop now !
lewis onionsThanks for the (not so ) good news, Carl !
lewis onionsHello Frank – I used the bars available from Armours (http://www.armoursltd.co.uk) for my 1928 Flyer. There is an online catalogue and you can order the bars unfinished rather than chromed or nickel. I then had the bars powder coated black and the result looks good. Armours have two patterns at 1 inch – Norton & Vincent -style straight handlebars and Standard style. I used Standard style but referring to Technicalities and the model profiles (where ther is an in depth profile of the 1927 Flyer) you might find that the starights are more like the originals.
lewis onionsHello again David
You appear to have got the idea with the oiling – centre pump is for the gears and the drippers each lubricate one side of the engine. The same oil is used for each from the oil tank situated on the down tube.
It is not enirely necessary to have a smokey oil haze in the exhuast – I suggest that you refer to the excellent online Technicalities posted by Steven Enticott (following the link provided by Roger) for extensive discussion regarding oiling of the engine. My drippers were set at just over 1 3/4 by (the far more knowledgable) prevous owner and this appears to do the trick with the minimal of haze. 20 drops per minute is recommended and this may mean that the drippers are set at different levels. Check that each cylinder is receiving oil by detaching the plug cables alternatively.
One (obvious) tip I can offer is to always make sure that the oil is turned off at the end of the day as flooding can cause great difficulties in slipping to the gear and copious amounts of smoke from the engine (if it starts at all). However, if you do remember to switch off it is often recommended to switch the oil to engine on a little before starting so as to allow some initial flow.
The Book of the Scott recommends Castrol XXL for “touring”. This is avaialable from specialists (I bought some at an auto jumble recently) but it is not cheap. An alternative is Duckhams 20W-50 Classic Engine Oil which I have found easier and is a lot less expensive. (I feel that this might provoke a debate – but we all have our favourites).
I will contact you off-line for details of where to send the copy of the Book of the Scott which I will copy at work on Monday – do not worry about charges.
Let us all know how you are getting on. There really is not anything quite like the experience of riding a 2 speeder!
lewis onionsHello David and welcome back to the fold(or should I say to the privileged society of the pracitioners of the 2 speeder)!
I am no expert (I have only recently acquired a running 2 speeder myself) and I am not near to you, but I thought that I should reply in case no one else does! The following are maters of note I have exerienced in running my 1925 Squirrel.
I was a little cautious myself at first – but apart from remembering to oil the two speed gear – and not too much (see my earlier postings) – there is not a great deal of difference in operating a 2 speeder from any other vintage machine.
Lots of tickling of the carb to start cold – make sure that it is very wet. When starting warm apply the opposite – very little petrol is needed.
Beware of being too brutal with the kick-starter which, although robust is less so than those operating directly from a conventional gear box.
The gears are easier to use than folk-law might suggest. All the same a little practice in a safe place is recommended; not least to save blushes in front of neighours who will undoubtedly make themselves available to be amused. I find that a twist grip throttle makes use of the gears all but fool-poof.
Returning to gear oiling – remember every 25 miles (or 30 minutes of running) or so to apply a pump of oil and use mineral rather than synthetic.
I suggest that you just go ahead and have a go! Make use of the summer weather and keep us informed of your progress. Any problems which you experience are usually capable of being settled via this forum (where, unlike the neighbours’, the humour of the correspondents is usually disguised).
If you do not have a copy of the “Book of the Scott” – I have a 1930 copy which I could photocopy and send to you. Let me know.
Good Luck!
lewis onionsHello Catrina and thank you for the response which continues the fine tradition of assistance by our Australian members! I will have a go with the degreaser and let you know the result. Here’s hoping !
lewis onionsHello Hanjo
For fenders (mudguards) try Renovation Spares, 49 Feckenham Road, Headless Cross, Redditch, UK, B97 5AS. Tel 01527 543796. They should have Scott pattern mudguards in stock but will manufacture ones to dimensions and photographs if necessary including valances and so on if needed. I think your mudguards should not have valsnces.
For handlebars try Armour Motor Products (Bournemouth) Limited, 784 Wimbourne Road,Moordown, Bournemouth BH9 2HS Tel 01202 519409, http://www.armoursltd.co.uk. There is a down-load of the catalogue available as it is often difficult to get through by telephone. Armours make a number of styles of handlebar in either 1 inch or 7/8 inch diameter unfinished or chromed. I do not know whether you need 1 inch or 7/8 for 1936 or whether they should be chromed or black like earlier bikes. (I would like to know if anyone can enlighten me). I have used what are referred to as Norton touring style (I think).
Armours will also do passable (but not strictly correct) handlebar controls and levers. If anyone knows of a decent source of handlebar controls I would like to know.
Armours also do a saddle type seat, again passable but not strictly correct. You might find a period saddle for sale on ebay.
I think that the Owners Club offer the side castings for a rear stand. If not try Tim Sharp, 14 Hazel Beck, Cottingley Bridge, Bingley, West Yorkshire, BD16 1LZ.
Good luck with the rebuild !
lewis onionsI have a 1928 Flyer and I have researched the petrol tank colours. The answer depends on whether yours is a 1928 season (available from late 1927 until late 1928) or a 1929 season bike (from late 1928).
The 1928 season bikes appear to have had purple side panels and a purple diamond on the top of the tank. This was like lammy 1’s but had a different transfer of an actual Flying Squirrel on the tank sides. See page 48 of the (first) Scott Selection for examples.
The 1929 season bikes had white side panels with the Scott Emblem transfer and a white triangle on the top. Page 60 of the Scott Selection shows examples of these.
Now, here is the rub. It is not nearly so clear when the change in colours was actually applied. My bike, which was first registered on 26 April 1928, now has the purple panels courtesy of a rebuild and re-paint in the 1980’s. However I have photographs of the bike as found in a barn before restoration with white panels. It does not appear that the tank had been changed as the auxillery side-wall oiler used on the 1928 models remains in situ underneath. The tank could have been repainted with white panels sometime in between but I doubt that this would have been the case (waht would be the point?). By the by there were also 1940’s style pin-up girl transfers on the tank of the sort applied to the side of war time bombers!
The transition between models (as appears the case with a number if not all Scott models) must have been gradual. On page 96 of the Second Scott Selection is a picture of a Flying Squirrel registered in September 1928 with white panels and Webb forks but the earlier aluminium exhaust manifold of the 1928 model.
I stand to be corrected if anyone has anything to add (!!).
lewis onionsMachinemart sell a mini pipe bender for this at a price of around £9.00 if I remember correctly. I am at the pipe bending stage of my restoration at present and so far although I have not created any flats using the tool. The only problem I am finding is in creating tight enough bends for some applications.
lewis onionsSorry !!
lewis onionsHello Dan
At the risk of giving you more duff information (!) I think that a speedo is only a legal requirement for bikes registered on or after 1 January 1937. If, as I seem to remember, your bike was registered in 1936 then you might not need to fit one at all.
If I am wrong about this then I am in trouble with my 1936 Flyer which has a speedo which is inoperative but the MOT tester I went to was persuaded!
Of course this doesn’t help at all with the dreaded Gastos.
lewis onionsSorry for the duff information Dan, I forgot to say that the plug hole may have been re-drilled. Obviously both of mine have been !
