[scott596]

Peter, somewhere either on this forum or on Roger Moss`s website, Roger has given dimensions for cup fitting and shrink ring sizes. Be carefull not to make the cup too big as crankcase castings easily crack with too much interference. Alan Noakes.

scottworkshop@hotmail.co.uk

[scott596]

[attachment=0]main cups 001.jpg[/attachment][attachment=1]bike rollers 014.jpg[/attachment][attachment=2]bike rollers 011.jpg[/attachment]Hi Peter first of all any crankcase or cup machining must be done with the distance piece in position, it won`t hurt if your new cups sit 5 or 10 thou further in toward the flywheel, after a few rebuilds cranks will fit further into the flywheel than they used to anyway, cups should really only be finish ground after they have been shrunk in. I don`t know why people decide to remove cups they are designed to be reground in situ when the need arises, a lot of engines I work on are still on their original sizes even after eighty years, it`s only crankcases that have been tampered with by their owners that give trouble. Don`t forget that the new OD of the cup will have to be slightly larger than the original in order to maintain the fit. The photos show a crankcase that I bought at an autojumble that was cracked and needed welding and had rusty cups. Alan Noakes scottworkshop@hotmail.co.uk

[scott596]

I don`t know of any standard Birmingham Scotts with 12volt systems only those modified by their owners, in my opinion the standard 6volt system gives a perfectly good headlight and charges the battery OK why change it? Alan Noakes. scottworkshop@hotmail.co.uk

[scott596]

[attachment=0]brake pedal.jpg[/attachment]Hi Dave, I have one off of a flyer that I am rebuilding so here is a photo, the drop arm might be home made but the hole centres are 1and 3/8″. Alan Noakes.

[scott596]

Hi please don`t use brass, I always use leaded bronze, whenever I do this job I always have the whole gearbox and make each bush individually to fit properly, in most cases now the sleeve gear and layshaft diameters are worn and will have to be ground, this will require the new bushes to be finished undersized. Alan Noakes. scottworkshop@hotmail.co.uk

[scott596]

Hi Mark to me it looks like the outlet tube has been soldered in pointing backwards when it should point forwards, most radiators for detachable head Scotts either point forwards slightly or are at 90 degrees, you will have to have it altered. Alan Noakes. scottworkshop@hotmail.co.uk

[scott596]

The cast aluminium exhaust manifold was generally considered to have been fitted to 1928 models but exactly when the first one came out would be a guess, but as this system had a left hand pipe it would not have affected the kick start lever, I believe the cranked lever was not introduced untill the right hand siamesed exhaust was fitted much later. Alan Noakes. scottworkshop@hotmail.co.uk

[scott596]

Hi Dave it all depends on where the ratchet wheel stops when you stop the engine if your kickstart lever doesn`t engage untill the 9 o`clock position then move the lever down half an inch and then let the lever come up again and see if the pawl drops into the next tooth on the ratchet wheel at a higher position, you might also find that the kickstart boss has started to move round anti clockwise ever so slightly. Alan Noakes. scottworkshop@hotmail.co.uk

[scott596]

Hi whenever I sell an item abroad I usually ask the buyer to get the item picked up by UPS they do everything required to ship the item including all the paperwork at no extra cost they are a worldwide company only a phonecall away. Alan Noakes. scottworkshop@hotmail.co.uk

[scott596]

Sorry to leave out the important bit, these units are supplied without the battery, they cost £450 the weight is approx 25KG. but I will have to confirm this when I get the next one finished. Alan Noakes. scottworkshop@hotmail.co.uk

[scott596]

Unfortunately motorcycle manufacturers tended to either copy each other or do things for visual effect, I believe that Scotts produced the twin sided brake in the same manner as explorers offered glass beads to the natives, or to trick another motorcyclist into buying their product. The fact remains that all brakeplates with the cam at the bottom should have the lever facing forward, just because Scotts fitted them facing backwards doesn`t mean that they knew what they were doing! The edge of the cam nearest the spindle will lift its brake shoe further than the other shoe will be lifted by its cam which is further away from the spindle, so it is most important to make sure that the brake shoe being lifted the most is the leading shoe and not the trailing shoe this can only happen if the brake lever is facing forward.While you can swap around brakeplates please do not swap the wheel around the threaded bearing retainer must always remain on the correct side. Alan Noakes, scottworkshop@hotmail.co.uk

[scott596]

Hi Duncan, I would have expected your engine number to be Y8456 not FY as these later crankcases were used on the three speed models and would not fit a two speeder frame, I have a 1926 narrow bearing engine in for overhaul at the moment with the engine number Y9xxx. Alan Noakes. scottworkshop@hotmail.co.uk

[scott596]

Just to confirm, a later pressure plate with adjustable pins can be retro fitted to an earlier clutch with loose pins, having free play in the cable does not mean that you have clearance on the pins. Oil on the plates is a problem, on new type fibre plates I make radial grooves in line with the tangs on both sides hopefully these grooves collect oil and centrifuge it out through the slots, I find using Castrol D140 oil reduces oil loss from the gearbox while Castrol R is an excellent oil it does absorb water over time, I am of the opinion that any oil leaking from the mainshaft/ clutch nut seal does not get into the clutch, the problem is that the splines on the sleeve gear get filled with oil and leak through the joints either side of the clutch backplate and using a sealant here on assembly will save a lot of problems. Alan Noakes. scottworkshop@hotmail.co.uk

[scott596]

I don`t know when the adjustable pins were introduced but 27/28 Flyer clutches certainly had non adjustable pins, the problems start when the plates wear and the clearance dissappears at this point owners would grind down the pins without being very accurate about keeping to the same length and at a later date when plates get renewed owners find they cannot get full lift to free the clutch. While adjustable pins can answer most of the problems sometimes previous owners have shortened the pins on a badly worn clutch, and also standard pins seem too short for a present day refurbished clutch, I always advise owners to sand new fibre plates by .020″ if they are fitting one of my alloy pressure plates. I have been asked about supplying new adjustable pins recently, if no one else has these available I will consider making some please let me know if there is any interest. Alan Noakes. scottworkshop@hotmail.co.uk

[scott596]

Hi Steve I can make the fibre washers for you if you let me know the sizes. Alan Noakes. scottworkshop@hotmail.co.uk

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