[scott596]

Afraid vintage flyer/TT rep frames are longer than post vintage types and the tanks cannot be swapped. Alan Noakes.

[scott596]

Lewis, the only Millar items would be the rotor and stator, these can be swapped for Lucas items, but if your problem is that the rotor rubs on the coils, then a small amount of persuasion might move the coils over in the housing and be relocated clear of the rotor, if it is the drive disc rubbing on the crank then use 2X gaskets so it clears. Alan Noakes.

[scott596]

Please dont use Scott purple for barrels, early Scotts had hand polished iron barrels that were finished in alazarin crimson tinted laquer, Flyer barrels were not polished at the factory and were painted, the nearest correct colour is Midland Railway Red available from model suppliers, you do not need heat proof paint for watercooled barrels. So many Scotts have been ruined by using the wrong finish on barrels. Alan Noakes

[scott596]

No me neither Brian, won`t know where to go when I get there. Alan Noakes.

[scott596]

all original tubes are threaded, replacement tubes are available from Richard Blackburn.

[scott596]

I just bore out the old threads and press in an aliminium stub with some Loctite smeared around the joint. Alan Noakes. scottworkshop@hotmail.co.uk

[scott596]

It would be fairly normal for a 600cc flyer to have a 40 tooth rear sprocket and 21 tooth gearbox sprocket regardless of wheel sizes as the overall diameter of the tyres is fairly similar. Alan Noakes. scottworkshop@hotmail.co.uk

[scott596]

Hi, 2X right hand threads are all I have ever seen on Scotts, to adjust you dissconnect one end from lever, adjust the length and then re-assemble, this means that you can only adjust by one turn at a time, but seems to work OK. Now i use easily obtainable 1/4″ rose joints, 1X femail, 1X male with a lock nut, fixed by 1/4″ BSF allen screws with locknuts onto the levers. Alan Noakes. scottworkshop@hotmail.co.uk

[scott596]

Hi Sheelagh, sorry that I could not help with a replacement pressure plate, as I said I do make a heavy duty Dural pressure plate but none in stock at the moment, a quick fix might be to modify a spare steel inner plate by turning out the inner dogs and then opening up the centre diameter by a quarter of an inch, this plate could then be brazed on to the dished original obviously there would be a gap on the outer edge that would have to be filled with the brazing material but you would end up with a much stiffer outer plate that is not dished, it is most important that the pins are all exactly the same distance away from the rubbing face of the pressure plate, I find the only way to do this properly is to take the plate off the clutch after getting the free play correct and finely adjusting the pin height with a vernier or height guage. Alan Noakes. scottworkshop@hotmail.co.uk

[scott596]

[attachment=0]DSCF0001 (2).JPG[/attachment]While I do buy from E-Bay I would advise people to be very carefull of what they are actually buying, a short time ago I paid a lot of money for a vintage gearbox that outwardly needed a lot of work but contained a close ratio gear set that I needed, the seller omitted to include one extra photo that would have stopped me bidding on the item, so I ended up with an expensive box of scrap metal.

[scott596]

Forgot to say a Scott engine should never be started without having sufficient oil in the crankcase, should be up to the bottom of the conrod, this ensures continued oiling of the piston when the engine starts, if you had to wait for the pilgrim to build the oil up to this level it would take an age and engine damage might result. You have proved that when the pistons are coated in oil the engine starts so if the oil coating continued then there is no reason why the engine could not continue to run. Alan Noakes. scottworkshop@hotmail.co.uk

[scott596]

[attachment=0]DSCF0002.JPG[/attachment]Hi Lewis, welcome to the Scott world, usually if a Scott engine has been left for a while the internal coating of oil drains or evaporates from all the bearing surfaces including pistons and gland faces, the result is that when you start to kick it over it is unable to create any suction, even if you get the pistons coated in oil the dry glands can still let air in, best plan is to take off transfer port covers and with an oil can pump oil all round the top of each piston and kick over to coat the bores next take the top cover off the pilgrim and fill up each side with the oil can, this will get a lot of oil into the engine in the shortest time, you can now start kicking again or alternatively buy one of my roller starters. Alan Noakes. scottworkshop@hotmail.co.uk

[scott596]

Hi Keith, if you want to bring it over to me I will put it on my flywheel support jig and hit the crank in the right direction. Alan Noakes. scottworkshop@hotmail.co.uk

[scott596]

Hi Eric, I am sure I replied to this question a number of years ago , in the 1970s I ran my Birmingham Scott on a 389 monobloc, you will have to make a wedge shaped manifold, start off with block of aluminium approx 1 1/4″ thick drill and counterbore for 3X 1/4″ whit allen screws to attach to the crankcase, then machine the carburettor face at an angle so the carb sits at a more horizontal position and drill and tap for fixing studs at 90 degrees from this face, you will have to blend the centre through hole to align carburettor and crankcase, my carb was 1 3/16″ and needed quite big jets to compensate for the slower air speed through the carb, hope this helps, by the way George Silk used to sell Concentric carbs and manifolds as an upgrade for Scotts. Alan Noakes. scottworkshop@hotmail.co.uk

[scott596]

Your pump connectors are not right you should have a banjo connector with a hollow bolt, similar to float bowl to carburettor joint. Alan Noakes. scottworkshop@hotmail.co.uk

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