Hi Roger, yes you are right the pin should stay between the springs and be assembled as a whole assembly,when I spoke to you at Shuttleworth I don`t think I explained the importance of getting the moving ratchet plate into the correct position by adjusting the length of the linkage between the moving plate and the gearbox indexing lever, this dictates the point of engagement between the pawl and ratchet plate and the amount of movement given to the linkage before the pawl hits the stop plate, hope this helps. Alan Noakes. scottworkshop@hotmail.co.uk
Yes I realise that the LH set is not a mirror image of the RH set, it was fitted to a clockwise BTH mag obviously by mistake, and the taper and key are exactly the same also the fibre heel for the moving point is at the correct radius, I have a few Lucas mags and the nearest match uses a pressed steel moving point although the rotor looks similar, I have also seen an IEC mag with a similar rotor and points, so maybe all the makers copied each other. So if a swap is out of the question has anyone a BTH RH points rotor for sale. Alan Noakes. scottworkshop@hotmail.co.uk
Hi Martin, I am about to make some of these carriers the only problem is that some people have 20″ wheels and some people have 19″ wheels also so many different mudguards and the way they are fitted, clearance etc. I think the only sensible thing to do is to allow the owner to drill the fixing bolt hole himself so that it sits level above the mudguard. Is there any other members out there who would be interested in one of these carriers? Alan Noakes. scottworkshop@hotmail.co.uk
Hi Roger, running your Scott for 4 or 5 minutes will not bring it up to boiling temperature your problem is almost definately leakage from the cylinder compression, I repair quite a few heads now that are suffering from perforation of the combustion chamber, the corrosion that causes this is within the waterjacket and cannot be seen visually. Alan Noakes. scottworkshop@hotmail.co.uk
Hi Dave, the reason drippers seem to work regardless of wether glands or no glands are fitted is the fact that gravity plus crankcase suction moves oil further than crankcase compression resisted by gravity could push it backwards. my previous reply did not mean that there was no suction present in the pipe only that the suction could not hoover out oil dripped into a pilgrim pump with a plunger in between the oil and the engine. My reference to different types of glands made by Scotts for different types of oiling systems, was only to show that when Scotts changed from drippers to pump feed they decided that better results were obtained by changing the hole pattern in the glands, and I am sure that had they decided to go back to drippers for the Flyer engines they would probably have altered the glands once more, I did not mean that drippers wont work with the standard glands in a Flyer engine, but if you have a 3 speed super engine with Best and Lloyd pump and want to convert to drippers then alternative glands are available. My personal view is that glands are an unnecessary nuisance and most of the oil centrifuges out from behind the gland regardless of the hole pattern anyway. The current trend in the club is that drippers are the answer to all ills, but they will only allow a fixed amount of oil to enter your engine and must be used in conjunction with a petroil mix, a good pilgrim pump will increase delivery with engine speed but even this is not good enough and would still require oil in the petrol, Scott owners seem to have forgotten that Scotts recommend that for fast road work you have to stop and open up your pump settings this would include drippers as well. I am so glad that my own Scott runs entirely on petroil with no weird oil system present. Alan Noakes. scottworkshop@hotmail.co.uk
I see the SOC still revells in myth legend and fairy stories, first of all each plunger in a pilgrim pump has to be phased at 180 degrees to each other this allows an equal opportunaty to take in a measure of oil, if both plungers tried to take oil at the same time there could well be a bias to one side, the inlet ends are diagonally opposite, so when you align them without the worm in place you have to screw the worm in fully without moving the plungers.
A pilgrim pump is not just a metering device it is a pump that delivers oil to the engine, each plunger is double ended, one end pumps oil up to the beak and the other end pumps the oil that drips along to the main bearings, if you doubt this just slacken the pipe joint at the elbow and see the ensuing mess inside the crankcase unaided by suction, if a Scott engine could produce enough suction in a split second when the gland holes align to pull cold oil through a foot of copper tube then that suction would empty your float chamber in a second, if you bothered to read the book of the Scott it would tell you that the pilgrim pump delivers oil under pressure to the main bearings. Also please note pilgrim pumps have been fitted to all manner of different bikes a lot of these are 4 strokes = no suction here so how do they work?
Over the years Scotts have fitted all manner of different oiling systems and for these they have developed glands with different hole positions so be aware you cannot just change the oiling method without fitting the corresponding glands.
Alan Noakes. scottworkshop@hotmail.co.uk
Hi Geoff, I believe that Douglas used a similar distributor on the dragonfly. Alan Noakes. scottworkshop@hotmail.co.uk
Hi Derek, I always find that there is no quick fix for this sort of problem and it is not just down to replacing the bushes, you will probably find that both the layshaft and the sleeve gear will need grinding slightly undersize to give a true diameter and then you can fit undersize bushes to suit with the factory recommended .002″ clearance, I would also advise owners to use a 140 oil and don`t fill with the bike on the rear stand best to leave the level plug out overnight with a tray underneath. Alan Noakes. scottworkshop@hotmail.co.uk
Hi Peter, don`t just put the shim back in because it was there before, I would build up the bottom end without the shim and with the distance piece in place between the upper rear bolt holes, then check the end float by levering the flywheel over to one side and then the other side a dial indicator is best but you can do it with slip gauges and feelers, you really want a minimum .015″ much over this then you need to start using shims, If you only need to use one shim I would use it on the right side this goes towards keeping the primary chain away from the N/S crankcase, best of luck. Alan Noakes. scottworkshop@hotmail.co.uk
Hi Dave I know that Tony K my nearest SOC member has an engine converted by Ian Pearce, I am sure that he told me he greases his engine every 300 miles maybe if he sees this he can comment, regarding petroil, as you know I run mine on petroil and would never have a Pilgrim pump anywhere near a two stroke engine, I would always use the best synthetic two stroke oil available regardless of cost, after all none of us do that many miles on a Scott to worry about oil costs. I use 25/1 mix because I use mine hard, and a normal Scott big end is not really designed for petroil, it`s not designed for direct oiling either! my big ends are different.Alan Noakes. scottworkshop@hotmail.co.uk
Hi John this is what I make to cure the problem, not cheap I know but does not wobble or distort when hot. Alan Noakes. scottworkshop@hotmail.co.uk
Hi Eric I answered this question for Dave Bushell a short while ago scroll back a bit. Alan Noakes. scottworkshop@hotmail.co.uk
PS. try November 3rd
Hi I have a spare August 1982 YOWL that you can have, please e-mail me Alan Noakes. scottworkshop@hotmail.co.uk
In Glasgow they call it whisky.
Hi Richard, in every gearbox that I have worked on there has never been a spacer as you have described, maybe a past owner thought it would stop the gear from jumping out. Alan Noakes. scottworkshop@hotmail.co.uk