ScottyHKev / Jon,
I understand and sympathize generally with the frustrations, but keep the faith with the Marque and Club, my advise is to manage your time and efforts accordingly and adjust your expectations of others (especially SM warriors).
Whist i think the FB page provides a service to SCott owners and interested persons, my take on the majority of Facebook operatives is that many are probably too tight to join and support the SOC club and are just looking for free advice from the numerous experts out there, then disagree with the advice given thereby wasting everybody’s time….. the number of experts out there who provide inaccurate and sometimes downright dangerous advise never ceases to amaze me ……..but it can often be a good source of entertainment.
Like you I have been asked many times by Scott owners to help them out with components and ive been happy to help out where i can, but an increasing number of them seem to expect you to give parts away and forget that youve either had to buy the parts in the first place yourself or spend considerable amounts of time and energy producing them.
The spares schemes cant be expected to stock and supply many parts other than service consumables and even then the assumption is that the buyers know what they want, but in many cases probably dont!. I’m sure that if there was sufficient interest in common components there may be a justification to invest in the manufacturer of items but i doubt that there will be a rush by people willing to put their money up front.
As youve found out nothing is cheap to manufacture these days, material costs have become prohibitively expensive as are energy costs and nobody goes to work for nothing, which is why i personally only make parts that i need myself for my own projects and then usually make a few extras whilst i’m at it and if people want them i’ll help them out. i’m now not in the habit of making parts anymore to order unless funds are received upfront because what i have found happening increasingly is that whilst ive been manufacturing a special request part the requester has subsequently sourced from somewhere else and then fails to turn up an collect it leaving me out of pocket in terms of time and money or they dont want to pay for the part leaving me with a part i dont need.
That’s my views and advise for what its worth,
Take care
ScottyHKev / Jon,
I understand and sympathize generally with the frustrations, but keep the faith with the Marque and Club, my advise is to manage your time and efforts accordingly and adjust your expectations of others (especially SM warriors).
Whist i think the FB page provides a service to SCott owners and interested persons, my take on the majority of Facebook operatives is that many are probably too tight to join and support the SOC club and are just looking for free advice from the numerous experts out there, then disagree with the advice given thereby wasting everybody’s time….. the number of experts out there who provide inaccurate and sometimes downright dangerous advise never ceases to amaze me ……..but it can often be a good source of entertainment.
Like you I have been asked many times by Scott owners to help them out with components and ive been happy to help out where i can, but an increasing number of them seem to expect you to give parts away and forget that youve either had to buy the parts in the first place yourself or spend considerable amounts of time and energy producing them.
The spares schemes cant be expected to stock and supply many parts other than service consumables and even then the assumption is that the buyers know what they want, but in many cases probably dont!. I’m sure that if there was sufficient interest in common components there may be a justification to invest in the manufacturer of items but i doubt that there will be a rush by people willing to put their money up front.
As youve found out nothing is cheap to manufacture these days, material costs have become prohibitively expensive as are energy costs and nobody goes to work for nothing, which is why i personally only make parts that i need myself for my own projects and then usually make a few extras whilst i’m at it and if people want them i’ll help them out. i’m now not in the habit of making parts anymore to order unless funds are received upfront because what i have found happening increasingly is that whilst ive been manufacturing a special request part the requester has subsequently sourced from somewhere else and then fails to turn up an collect it leaving me out of pocket in terms of time and money or they dont want to pay for the part leaving me with a part i dont need.
That’s my views and advise for what its worth,
Take care
ScottyHScottyHJohannes,
Standard B&L drippers = clockwise to close, anti-clockwise to open. If the taper on the drippers stem is worn or the orifice is worn these factors will also have a affect on the flowrate.
Hope this helps
ScottyHJason, Pesonally, I wouldn’t support the closing of the SOC forum,
Its a fantastic forum and source of information which is not controlled by anybody othere than yourself and the club.
Whilst i dont have any issues with the Facebook page, i do =know lots of people will NOT engage with Facebook for personal reasons.
The Club should maintain the forum for the benefit of its members, ceasing it as a live Forum would be a big mistake for the Club. I’m sure that there must be ways to manage the Online Safety Act 2023 without it being too onerous on you or the club.
Surely this is something that the committee should be engaged with before any rash decisions are made and discussed at the forthcoming AGM.
ScottyHHi Geoffrey,
Welcome to the SOC, In response to your questions i offer the following for your consideration:
1) The actual difference in the big ends does not matter as the connecting rod big end and crank big end bearing rings are ground to accept standard 3/8″ x 3/8″ rollers, however they are both worn and oval – which is not uncommon but does need rectifying.
2) Nowadays Pistons are machined from blanks available from Roger Moss who has three different blanks depending on the engine type and are machined to suit the bores – in the past standard plus size pistons were available from the likes of Hepolite, but this is no longer the case unless you can pick up some NOS items. So reboring barrels with MMR is the best way forward and then machine the pistons to suit. If you go through the members pages of this forum you will find pretty much all the old Yowl, in which you will find all the relevant technical information on how to machine pistons, clearances etc – during your search you will find lots of useful information.
Machining pistons is a time consuming job so doesn’t come cheaply, however sometimes you can pick up used pistons and refinish them to your required size, which is more likely if your bores are at the lower end of their wear limit.
A well built Scott is a delight to ride and own, i’m sure you will be very pleased once you have completed your new apprenticeship and engine restoration .
Good luck
ScottyHI don’t think that the original narrow thrust races are commercially available anymore and you don’t want to fit anything that is not hardened steel , but you can usually get around the problem by removing the ring from the quick thread and turning it around ( assuming somebody hasn’t already done that and then fit a needle rolling element thrust bearing – If you need the bearing number let me know and i’ll find it for you.
ScottyHI don’t think that the original narrow thrust races are commercially available anymore and you don’t want to fit anything that is not hardened steel , but you can usually get around the problem by removing the ring from the quick thread and turning it around ( assuming somebody hasn’t already done that and then fit a needle rolling element thrust bearing – If you need the bearing number let me know and i’ll find it for you.
ScottyHHello Peter,
The clutch actuating mechanism to which you refer usually operates without any undue force and ive not heard of issues like this before.
It would be worth checking that the pivot pins that run through the actuators body are free to move and havent picked-up in the housing.
To do this I would suggest that you remove all the clutch springs and see if the unit operates easily, alternatively a safer way is to remove only half the springs to reduce the spring load and see if the unit operates without undue force. If the unit doesnt operate freely you will have to dismantle it to find the cause of the stiffness, if the unit operates freely then there are a couple of options available, either:
1) Fit springs with a lower spring -rate, which could off course result in clutch slip if you go too low,or
2) Making and fitting longer actuating arms on the clutch mechanism to increase the mechanical advantage of the unit,
3) Fit longer clutch lever to increase the mechanical advantage
Something else worth checking is that the cable is free to operate and that the springs aren’t becoming ‘spring bound’ i,e compressed together so that they become solid creating significant resistance to the operation of the clutch.
Good luck with your investigations, let us know how you get on and what you find.
ScottyHHello Peter,
The clutch actuating mechanism to which you refer usually operates without any undue force and ive not heard of issues like this before.
It would be worth checking that the pivot pins that run through the actuators body are free to move and havent picked-up in the housing.
To do this I would suggest that you remove all the clutch springs and see if the unit operates easily, alternatively a safer way is to remove only half the springs to reduce the spring load and see if the unit operates without undue force. If the unit doesnt operate freely you will have to dismantle it to find the cause of the stiffness, if the unit operates freely then there are a couple of options available, either:
1) Fit springs with a lower spring -rate, which could off course result in clutch slip if you go too low,or
2) Making and fitting longer actuating arms on the clutch mechanism to increase the mechanical advantage of the unit,
3) Fit longer clutch lever to increase the mechanical advantage
Something else worth checking is that the cable is free to operate and that the springs aren’t becoming ‘spring bound’ i,e compressed together so that they become solid creating significant resistance to the operation of the clutch.
Good luck with your investigations, let us know how you get on and what you find.
ScottyHIts been common practice by many engine builders for many years now not to fit the left handed lock-nut to the crankshaft bolt as the potential risk of it coming loose and causing collateral damage was thought to be more significant than the bolt itself coming loose. The bolt is therefore often found to be shortened by the removal of the left hand portion of the thread.
If the cranks are knocked up correctly the likelihood of the crank centre bolt coming loose is minimal hence the decision of most engine builders not to use the lock nut.
Whether or not a low to medium strength loctite product is used as a ‘belts and braces’ approach is up to the engine builder / owner
ScottyHAndy, I think you’ve answered your own question, you can shim using rubber washers to achieve the best fit.
Its important that the radiators isn’t mounted too tightly on its rubbers to limit vibration.
ScottyHHI Joe,
Please find rubbing and photograph attached.
The plate itself would be very easy to make.
The ball bearing should be 9/32″ diammeter
Regards
Graham
ScottyHHi Joe,
I’ll dig-out an ident plate and sort this out for you tomorrow.
Regards,
Graham
ScottyHHello Olaf,
Its a very personal choice as to which antifreeze to use, no doubt you will get several personal recommendations.
Personally, I use Fernox Alphi 11, which is a clear anti-freeze additive,
https://fernox.com/product/antifreeze-protector-alphi-11-5-litre/
Regards,
Graham
