[ScottyH]

Olaf,

If you ask 20 Scott owners you are likely to get 15 different answers.

Personally the system i use is to connect the new chain to the old and with the sparkplugs out and the gearbox in top gear i rotate the back wheel whilst retaining tension on the old chain, until the new chain is in the best position to be handles – this of course assumes that the primary and drive chain are fitted.

But any of the ways that you have  suggested will work and its not difficult to just feed a new chain around the flywheel sprocket and hook the bottom of the chain with a piece of thin wire such as a welding rod and / or a telescopic magnet. If the primary chain isnt fitted just rotate the flywheel by hand with the spark plugs out.

You are sure to find the best solution for yourself after you have completed the operation a few times.

 

Good look and dont trap your fingers,

[ScottyH]

If youve removed your mag you will have to retime the magneto to the engine which is relatively straight forward, during the process you should note which magneto pickup is in contact with the slip ring at the point of ignition, which ever lead / pickup is aligned to the slip ring ( easily checked by removing the brush holder) will go to the cylinder that is just before TDC.

Hope this helps?

[ScottyH]

Mike,

If its a twin brake set-up with the compensator, i’d get rid of the compensator to start with and fit a brake lever with dual cables. In terms of brake lining material I’d suggest that you speak to the guys at Saftek: Rawfolds Industrial Estate, Bradford Rd, Cleckheaton, BD19 5LT
01274 862666, cleckheaton@saftek.co.uk.

They will advise what materials that they have available that may be more suitable than the standard lining material, personally Ive always had excellent service from them turning repairs around within a couple of days.

I don’t know if they do a material supply only service, but you could ask.

Good luck, please post how you go on for the benefit of others

[ScottyH]

Please note the date is Monday 17th June not 19th as previously advised

[ScottyH]

Please note the date is Monday 17th June not 19th as previously advised

[ScottyH]

If your not a member of the SOC, i’d recommend that you join it as there is lots of information available which you will find useful and helpful.

Both crankcase wells need to have oil in them as they are not interconnected unless your engine had been modified from standard, without removing the crankcase doors there is no other way of physically checking the levels.

There are a number of  views regarding gearbox oil, some use Straight 30, some use 30 grade castor others use Thioxtropic lubricant, fill via the large cap using a suitable tundish or similar.

The gearbox has a level plug, fill the gearbox until oil just runs out of the plug – the gearboxes are not particularly leak free, there are mods you can do to improve them but if you overfill it it will make matters worse, generally they will find their own level providing the shaft bushes aren’t excessively worn!

With respect to Coolant again there are a number of different schools, Fernox Alphi 11 is as good as anything, other antifreezes are also good as long as its suitable for the metallurgy (cast iron, Brass & aluminium)  ideally with demin water – I personally wouldnt use straight water due to the potential for frost damage if you forget to drain down before winter.

Good Luck

 

[ScottyH]

No just remove the crankcase doors and poor the engine oil until it fills the well up until it just touches the bottom of the crankshaft on both cranks

[ScottyH]

Dont forget that the wells of the engine need to be filled with 2-stroke oil just up to the level where the crank picks up oil as it rotates. I would strongly advise to either drain and flush out or remove any residual oil that you find in the wells prior to attempting to start the engine

[ScottyH]

Dont forget that the wells of the engine need to be filled with 2-stroke oil just up to the level where the crank picks up oil as it rotates. I would strongly advise to either drain and flush out or remove any residual oil that you find in the wells prior to attempting to start the engine

[ScottyH]

David,

Please not there was an error in my email address, my Correct email address is: grahamhorner1@sky.com

Regards

Graham

[ScottyH]

Hi David,

Yes they are for 8″ Webb hubs identical to the originals, i have a couple available from the last batch manufactured but unlikely to get anymore pressed due to the costs for small batches.

email me at :grahamhorner1@sky.com for further details.

Regards,

Graham

Graham

[ScottyH]

David,

I had some replica Webb brake plates pressed last year. If your interested email me at grahamorner1@sky.com

Regards,

Graham

[ScottyH]

I’m not sure what the designed compression ratio of the engines was, no doubt it is quoted somewhere but potentially due to numerous tolerance changes over the years the actual may be different from the designed ( as there are numerus factors which could affect the CR including piston dimensions, does it have the correct connecting rods, is it a SS or LS cylinder, its not unknown to find engines with the  incorrect cranks fitted)  . Personally,  If you have insufficient squish clearance the easiest solution could involve fitting an annealed copper shim plate between the cylinder block and head.

[ScottyH]

Fitting a central bush between / through the front crankcase mounting hole, is a modification carried out by some owners. I dont believe that its something the factory did, but happy to be advised otherwise

[ScottyH]

Still looking for a short stroke blind head flyer cylinder if anybody can help???

[Author]

Posts