[Deleted User]

Hi Jason, as I do not use “data miners” ad Facebook / Meta and alike, does this mean I can not use the forum anymore although beeing a full member of the club? Really hope this is not the case… Regards from Germany, Olaf

[Deleted User]

Here’s the setup

Attachments:

You must be logged in to view attached files.

[Deleted User]

I live in USA and recently purchased the bike from the Mecum Auction.

[Deleted User]

Hi Andy, believe the radiator hose is never straight. During the attempt to check as many bikes as possible to gain information for my own “refurbish ing project” (’36 Flier) I always! found more or less bended connection hoses. As a chemist, I can let you know that silicone is the hose material you should look at… Regardsfrom Germany, Olaf

[Deleted User]

Hello Leif and Martin,

thank you both…

Regards from Germany,

Olaf

Attachments:

You must be logged in to view attached files.

[Deleted User]

Hi Graham, thanks! At least a suggestion I can use as a starting point.. Main point is to prevent electrochemical corrosion between all the materials brass, aluminum and cast iron. Wish you a peacefull Christmas! Regards, Olaf

[Deleted User]

Hello Andy,

as the replacement of the old radiator rubber hose is the next thing to do on my `36 Flier: did the silicone tubing work in your case?

And another, maybe stupid one: do you think it is appropriate to add a small amount of modern Glysantin to the distilled water to prevent corrosion? If yes, any ideas which quality to use?

Thanks and best regards from Germany, Olaf

 

[Deleted User]

Hi Scotty, quick update to the magnot chain replacement issue: everything went well by following the recognized procedure. It was bit of a problem to attch the new chain to the old Wipperman (?) due to differnt width of the links, but a piece wire eventually helped. No fingers damaged!

Thanks again for your help…

Regards from Germany, Olaf

[Deleted User]

Hi Scotty, just a quick update: the replacement of the worn out Wippermann by a new Iwis 1/2 x 3/16 could be done without issues. Another question, if you allow: what’s in your radiator? Plain tap water or a water/modern coolant mix? If the latter, which one? Thanks again for any tipps! Regards grom Germany, Olaf

Attachments:

You must be logged in to view attached files.

[Deleted User]

Thanks for that Chris,
<p style=”text-align: left;”>Pilgrim pump was renovated so should be fine, and I will look to move away from petroil too but just being overcautious on the oiling I guess which is causing part of the issue now. will let you know how I get on.</p>

[Deleted User]

One more note here, the current oil I used was a 2T synth (liqui moly Street Race). That’s definitely below 40 SAE if I understand correctly so need to swap that out. But VERY aware from reading other threads of not mixing 4 & 2 stroke and also ensuring to use the same oil for petroil and pump, so need to think a bit about how to replace that out, would definitely welcome any pointers here. If there is a 2 stroke oil I can get that will be the right viscosity or more will probably be easier to stick with 2 stroke?

[Deleted User]

Thanks for that Ian,

Spoke to Trevor on the spares scheme and he corrected me on that too and will get some water dome gaskets, my mix up on this. It is coming from the dome outside and not the ferrules btw, but some updates on the latest on that below.

I mentioned I’d give a quick summary of my teething issues to date, more for people’s awareness as anything so jotting it down here, but obviously would love to hear anyones thoughts or pointers if I’m headed down the wrong path.

• From when I started out the engine always ran fine, but wouldn’t start on the second day. I eventually tracked this down to a perished oil cork which meant the oil was leaking into the engine overnight (and leaking in general). I only get to work on this intermittently as its not at my home, so was only putting in small amounts of oil each time; so this took a while to find! Interestingly on day two it was pretty much always the left side of the crankcase that was full of oil, which is one thing that led me down a rabbit hole in the beginning.
• Anyway replaced the cork and got that fixed, the engine was noticeably down on power then but would run with no real issues. That power loss was down to the crankcase gaskets getting worn from opening and closing due to step 1 above, so replaced those and sealed it (in a temporary manner so I can always as re-open).
• Next time I started it, all good from above issues and power was back, except water was spraying at quite a pace from the water dome, this lead me to the above request
• So I started it again this weekend as was about to look at fixing the leak, however the water leak had almost completely disappeared. It still needs some work but nothing as concerning as first time (but will still go through with replacing the gaskets etc.).
• I then took it for a short run as I was looking at the pilgrim pump timing, but I’ve been using an oil that is not really pulsing as its not viscous enough so more of a light flow; I also had some as petroil so it was certainly over oiling, and wet both the plugs. It was also misfiring, but pretty much only on left side (which I’m guessing is down to the pump timing?)
• Last step, dried the plugs and started it at which point it blew the transfer port gasket on the RHS from the top.; prob down to some extra leftover fuel in the chamber as it sounded to rev higher than usual.

So thats where I am, and I’ve requested some transfer port gaskets from Trevor now as well 🙂

Enjoying the journey, but certainly has its frustrations. But I expect I’ll know the bike pretty well by the end of this!

Next steps are to drain and switch to Castrol 40, following Richard Moss’s oiling tips on his page, replace transfer ports and dome gaskets and time the pilgrim pump. Then I guess we will see whats next.

Thanks,

Billy

[Deleted User]

Thanks for that Ian,

Spoke to Trevor on the spares scheme and he corrected me on that too and will get some water dome gaskets, my mix up on this. It is coming from the dome outside and not the ferrules btw, but some updates on the latest on that below.

I mentioned I’d give a quick summary of my teething issues to date, more for people’s awareness as anything so jotting it down here, but obviously would love to hear anyones thoughts or pointers if I’m headed down the wrong path.

• From when I started out the engine always ran fine, but wouldn’t start on the second day. I eventually tracked this down to a perished oil cork which meant the oil was leaking into the engine overnight (and leaking in general). I only get to work on this intermittently as its not at my home, so was only putting in small amounts of oil each time; so this took a while to find! Interestingly on day two it was pretty much always the left side of the crankcase that was full of oil, which is one thing that led me down a rabbit hole in the beginning.
• Anyway replaced the cork and got that fixed, the engine was noticeably down on power then but would run with no real issues. That power loss was down to the crankcase gaskets getting worn from opening and closing due to step 1 above, so replaced those and sealed it (in a temporary manner so I can always as re-open).
• Next time I started it, all good from above issues and power was back, except water was spraying at quite a pace from the water dome, this lead me to the above request
• So I started it again this weekend as was about to look at fixing the leak, however the water leak had almost completely disappeared. It still needs some work but nothing as concerning as first time (but will still go through with replacing the gaskets etc.).
• I then took it for a short run as I was looking at the pilgrim pump timing, but I’ve been using an oil that is not really pulsing as its not viscous enough so more of a light flow; I also had some as petroil so it was certainly over oiling, and wet both the plugs. It was also misfiring, but pretty much only on left side (which I’m guessing is down to the pump timing?)
• Last step, dried the plugs and started it at which point it blew the transfer port gasket on the RHS from the top.; prob down to some extra leftover fuel in the chamber as it sounded to rev higher than usual.

So thats where I am, and I’ve requested some transfer port gaskets from Trevor now as well 🙂

Enjoying the journey, but certainly has its frustrations. But I expect I’ll know the bike pretty well by the end of this!

Next steps are to drain and switch to Castrol 40, following Richard Moss’s oiling tips on his page, replace transfer ports and dome gaskets and time the pilgrim pump. Then I guess we will see whats next.

Thanks,

Billy

[Deleted User]

Hi Chris, I’m in Salisbury.

[Deleted User]

Bloody Germans as me believe its a source for tea water… Seriously: its to drain the cooling water to prevent cracks in icy nights. Regards, Olaf

[Author]

Posts