[dave bushell]

I have one in good condition. Make me an offer I can’t refuse!

Dave

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[dave bushell]

Yes, but you may find it difficult to find that size these days. Front tyres are not a problem but road going rear tyres are difficult to find. I’ve had to resort to buying second hand 20” x 3.00” rear tyres for my bike. I think 20” x 3.50” are available but then you lose that spindly look that the thinner tyre gives you.

[dave bushell]

Martin

If you have a look in the Document Archive on this website, you can find the information that you require.

Dave

[dave bushell]

There are two lengths of spring, one for the long headstock and one for the short headstock. Have you got the correct spring? If you try to fit a long spring in a short headstock fork, the whole thing will be near enough solid!

[dave bushell]

I only know of a Velo box fitted to a Brum Scott. Details are in Yowl and Technicalities.  I don’t think that it will help you much as the frames are so different but it may give you a few ideas. I did ride it some years ago and found the mix of ratios quite good.

[dave bushell]

Maybe, but I only need to know which synthetic seal is the best fit.

Dave

[dave bushell]

Thanks for that, I’ll check them out.

Dave

[dave bushell]

Go onto the club website and go to the document archive. You will find a 1927  Flying Squirrel catalogue.

Dave

[dave bushell]

I made up a tool from a an old tube spanner and ground the end to provide four tangs to engage with the locking ring.  A piece of steel tube of the right diameter and adequate wall thickness or even solid rod will obviously do.  Having the four tangs spreads the load and reduces the chance of damage.

Dave

• This reply was modified 5 years, 3 months ago by dave bushell.

[dave bushell]

You will certainly need a horn even if it is only a bulb horn. You have to have an audible warning of approach, as if a Scott wasn’t loud enough!  Mudguards even if they small, I believe are required- you’ll need somewhere to mount your rear number plate anyway!

A stoplight is probably a good idea; I once saw a two speeder (carbide lights only)  tail ended by a car when slowed for a roundabout. The driver claimed his none existent stop light wasn’t working. This was in full daylight. I’ve rigged up a led stoplight with it’s own battery on my Sprint Special which otherwise has no lighting.

[dave bushell]

My ‘25 two speeder has a “splitter” fitted in the inlet manifold of the crankcase to prevent fuel mixture bias to one cylinder after it has traversed the bend in the side mounted carb manifold.

[dave bushell]

There are no torque settings. The bolts are steel with a coarse Whitworth thread screwing into aluminium, so care is needed not to over tighten, although I’ve not come across a stripped one. For me it’s always done by feel, something you acquire after stripping threads in the past! No doubt someone on the forum will give you better advice.

Dave

[dave bushell]

They are drain plugs. Undo them and you drain the wells at the bottom of the crankcase chambers. I use PTFE  tape on the threads of mine to stop any oil seepage.

Dave

[dave bushell]

I suppose that you were there Stan to help Noah!

[dave bushell]

3.25 x 19 front, 3.50 x 19 rear. Avon or Dunlop.

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