Hi Tony
You’re not alone with this problem. My Super is the same – always has been. I use 14mm NGK B6ES and I have to turn the bottom 4mm or so of the plug threads off in the lathe in order to be able enter the plugs on an angle to give enough clearance to lift them to the vertical position for screwing in.
Never been a problem once you have a set (and a spare set) turned down.
Cheers
G
My Super setup is the same as yours. Drippers (6 drips / min loosely) + 100:1 ish in the mix (Silkolene Super 2). It runs fine, very little smoke, big ends are nice and oily and I too get the odd drip of oil from the coffee pot, but I live with that quite happily.
Where are based John? May be one of us could “pop over” if you local to anyone on here (obviously I don’t want you to publish you actual address for security reasons etc).
I’ve not heard anything. Anyone now about security of bikes overnight? (e.g. do they have a garage we can lock them in etc.?)
When I was setting mine up, I found the dogs were lined up perfectly for the recesses in the ident plate – but I could either set the linkage to get Neutral, second & Third – But not first OR First, Neutral, Second, BUT not Third.
The bush on the centre of the “velocette” change mechanism was a very snug fit, but the main lump (Rotor?) of the change mechanism was quite loose in the outer “drum”. When I looked closely, you loose a hell of a lot of travel with this play between the drum and “Rotor”. As a stop gap (a few years ago now – so maybe not such a stop gap), I compensate for the play, by experimenting with some butcher feeler gauges. I found that a length of 5thou feeler gauge Araldited to the top and bottom of the Rotor to remove the play between the two – and now it changes gear superbly.
One of these days I will make a more permanent repair – but as this is beginning to look permanent, may be not ……
Anyway – worth a look in case that is your issue.
Cheers
Graham
Such a shame. He really was a great chap.
Hi Chaps
Thanks for the replies.
I have looked at the material I have and indeed it is quite stretchy. Given this I will try the stitch and stretch method in the first instance.
Cheers
Graham
Hi
Is there a date for the December meeting David?
Thx
In case anyone is interested …..
I’ve just rebuilt my Gearbox and will use Morris Oils AG140 (non-EP). If this does manage to leak out I’ll move to their semi-fluid grease “K4000EP”.
I just spoke to their technical department and they actually have Scott 3-Speed Gearbox listed in their database with both these options as being suitable.
Cheers
Graham
Mine is the same as that. It just has a standard cork seal and it’s reasonably leak prove.
I had to play around with different thicknesses of gasket and also the spring washer on the back needs to be in good nick to given enough friction to maintain the seal.
Cheers
PS – depending on where u live, Esso Supreme is supposed to be ethanol free
Thanks Brian
Any thoughts on depth?
Cheers
Enjoy
BUT be sure to VERY CAREFULLY check the fork stem for cracks before riding it out – see previous post on this topic on this forum.
Thx Eddie
I measured my pistons and they are 2.715 (500 cc Short Stroke @ +.040″
I had a quick look at MG / Triumph and they all seem to be 73 / 74 mm so 600 sized.
Fortunately Richard appears to have have some 69.5mm rings so I can get them there.
Many thanks for responding.
Cheers
Graham
Thx – I’ll try him