Craig
Re: What the “Swelling” around the crankcase doors for a wide bearing Super engine look like – here are a few links to the Gallery section of Wide Bearing Super Engines – both 2-Speeder and 3-Speeder…..
https://www.scottownersclub.org/Images/socvisitorpic01_3spsuper2.JPG
https://www.scottownersclub.org/Images/1929sportssquirrel_lakeland_1998.JPG
My Forks are the other way around – but I’ve seen lots of examples they way yours are so would not like to mention anything about correctness.
I too had meant to mention the kink in the radiator hose (Thanks Eric) but it had fallen off the edge of a cell by the time I’d written the rest – definitely needs sorting before using.
Looking at the photos I’m 99% sure its a narrow bearing engine – but like Richard suggests – taking off the door and measuring is the best thing to do AND you can (hopefully) reassure yourself by checking there are no signs of blueing / debris / looseness in there.
Little tip to take doors off – just undo the securing nuts and kick the engine over – doors should just blow out nice and gentle – no need to “dig” them out.
Cheers
G
😀 Welcome to the world of 3-Speed Supers (or standard if that’s what it proves to be). Whatever, it certainly looks good and I do hope you enjoy it.
I too have a 3-Speed Super (1924/26 is – its a long story), so thought I’d drop a few notes that you might find useful. Please don’t feel down if the last 2 or 3 points I raise seem a bit negative – they are just things you NEED to know. I can tell you that I love owning and riding my 3-Speeder 😀 .
Firstly – it is indeed, as you say – a 3-Speeder – but you will find yourself in a bit of no-mans-land with this machine (the vast majority of Scotts fall into 2 other brackets; “2-Speeders” and “Flyers” (Flyers bieng 3-Speed obvioulsy) though there are other derivatives such as Sprint Specials). Anyway – 3-Speed Supers are not as common as the other “Big 2 groups”.
Secondly – if ever you talk about you engine, you will find most people will refer to your “type” of engine as a “2-Speeder” – bit confusing to begin with, but this is because 80% of the time your engine is found on 2-Speeders and the majority 80% forget the lesser 20% of occasions where it is used on 3-Speeders.
❓ Thirdly – looking at you engine and give the year – it looks like a “Narrow Bearing Engine” (you can tell by looking at the sides of the engine where the crankcase doors are – if they are flat then it is definitely a narrow bearing crank – if it swells out by 3/8 of an inch or so around the crankcase door – then its a wide bearing crank). “Narrow” means the big ends are only 1/4″ wide, whereas “Wide” mean they are 3/8″ wide like the later Flyer engines. No big issue – but as a narrow bearing crank is inherently weaker than a wide bearing crank – just take on board all the warnings about ensuring little end alignment / big end bluing etc to ensure the crank gets as easy a time as possible.
Fourth – If you get any queries about the gearbox side of life, yours appears to be the “Wobbly Walking Stick” variety.
❗ 🙁 Fifth – You have the narrow type Scott Front Forks – these are great in many ways – but you will see from various reports, that the fork stem (bit going through the Frame Headstock, not the bit in front where the spring action takes place) is VERY prone to cracking / snapping – which if this happens can be catastrophic – for the bike AND YOU. So read up on this bit and get it checked out.
❗ 🙁 Sixth – Yours is the original Scott front “brake” – more of an ornament than a brake – and again there are some serious safety related issues with respect to the brake plate anchoring mechanism – which you would be wise to pay some specific attention to.
❓ Seventh – the Undertray for mounting the engine / gearbox is particularly prone to cracking (from photos yours looks good – but this is an area where “A stitch in time” is well worth keeping in mind – so keep a good eye open for cracks (especially around the rear mouting lugs).
Both 5 & 6 are covered in some of the recent past Scott eNewsLetters – if you let me have you email I can send copies of the specific editions to save you trawling.
Do hope you enjoy.
Graham
oops – sorry messed this one up and couldn’t work out how to delete the posting
Sorry I cant help – but I was also pondering what this meant.
The mod certainly seems to have a dramatic impact and would seem to be well worth doing. Tantalisingly (or may be dangerously?) he suggests “You could easily apply this feature to a Scott crank“.
I just need to know what this “Feature” is…?
Sorry I cant help – but I was also pondering what this meant.
The mod certainly seems to have a dramatic impact and would seem to be well worth doing. Tantalisingly (or may be dangerously?) he suggests “You could easily apply this feature to a Scott crank“.
I just need to know what this “Feature” is…?
Thanks Eric – Much appreciated
Thanks
But sadly – I have / nor know of any such parts
Graham
Gents – I read this article and had a hunch I had something of this nature lying around in the shed.
I don’t have a drum (you could turm one easily enough), but I do have a front 2-Speeder (narrow type) front hub AND and Scott 2-Speeder brake plate.
Both appear in pretty good nick. I’d prefer to swap for Flyer clutch / gearbox / undertray / outrigger parts, but if you don’t have any such stuff and you would like these bits, then as its you guys….
Graham
Chris
That’s very generous of you.
My address is:
136 Crewe Road
Nantwich
Cheshire
CW5 6JS
Let me know how much you want and I’ll send by return – you can email me directly at Graham.Parker@CompliantManagement.co.uk
Many thanks
Graham
Thanks Dave – That’s what mine has – (or had before it was chewed up)
Any body got any thoughts on my previous question….
Re: Clutch race bearing – what is the norm here? a cage (to hold the rollers in place) held in place by the spring studs, or some sort of thin face plate to hold the rollers in place?
All responses appreciated – Thanks – Graham
Try Colin Morris – he made a batch of Oval Tanks a couple of years ago and may still have one available.
If not he may know where the “former” is for the end sections.
Regards
Graham
Thanks Ted
But have tried Ian and he has clutch plates for Flyers but not for Supers.
Graham
Thanks Malcolm.
I agree – Lathes.co.uk is probably one of the best sites on the web, it really is fantastic for machine tool stuff. Indeed, it was only after reading the info on there, that I even began to consider a Southbend, before that, I was only looking at Myfords, Boxfors, etc.
If anyone reading this hasn’t looked at this site, I really would recomend it.
Cheers
G