[Graham Parker]

Thanks David

Have seen the email. Not heard back yet but fingers crossed.

Many thanks

[Graham Parker]

Morris lubricants do a “Semi-fluid” grease which I think is thixotropic. It is branded K400EP with 3 different grades available.

Morris’s pride themselves on providing quails, specialist oils and are active as a family in vintage activities in the Shropshire border area.

Whilst it is an EP and markets for use in modern commercial vehicle central lube systems ito is also clearly stated as being suitable for vintage / veteran vehicle applications – so assume modern EP properties avoid copper/phosphor bronze earing adertivespecially

[Graham Parker]

Thanks for responses. Much appreciated.

Given its now October, I think I’ll strip it down again, check the depth of current scoring, (it looks more like “polishing” from what I can see with a mirror) and work out what needs to be done to effect an engineered solution (including shimming crank to the opposite side of the float).

Appreciating that I may need to move Gearbox/Clutch primary drive sprocket accordingly, Is there any reason why, if found to be necessary, that I could not skim a millimetre or so from the flywheel boss itself and thus move the drive sprocket closer to the flywheel (there seems to be plenty of room on that side)?

Thx

G

[Graham Parker]

Have to agree with Bob Mathern. Main jet seems a re herring as it is only relevant after 3/4 throttle.

Also agree about getting electrics/timing right and looking for leaks.

But after electrics and leaks are confirmed ok I’d forget main jet size and start with slide sizes (6/3 is a good place to start) but I’d also be looking at needle jet size and needle position combinations. Needle jets are pretty cheap so a range of 105 / 106 / 107 is reasonably cheap to get. Also make sure the needle itself is in good nick.

Good luck

[Graham Parker]

HAve you read Roger Moss’ piece in this months yowl on these yet?

If not, do so. I think it will answer your question (Velocette club have them by the sound of things)

Cheers

Graham

[Graham Parker]

In case anyone was considering this, I contacted the makers today and they were clear that it is ok for general vintage use, BUT NOT OK for thermo / syphon systems, and thus not compatible for use in a SCOTT – apparently its to do with the thermo-fluid dynamics of the coolant, which would cause overheating around the barrel before the syphoning action would commence.

Given that I’m going to use Morris Lubricant’s “universal anti-freeze” which they recommend as being ok.

[Graham Parker]

Colin Morris did definitely make a batch – probably 6 or 7 years ago and is worth contacting as he went through a whole heap of learning to get that small batch done.

“Tooling” is rather a grand word for the former that exists. It is sufficient to act as a starting point is not sufficient to simple allow top / bottom blanks to be stamped out. Again Colin is probably a good starting point to track down its whereabouts.

One last thing …. be aware that lengths of the tanks vary quite considerably between model variants.

Good luck

[Graham Parker]

Hi Jem

Roger Moss did a batch if stems a while back. Worth checking if he made any spares.

Whatever route you go down make sure you check the stem for cracks VERY carefully.

I ended up having to machine an LE velo hub to fit my narrow forks – but its a very wady bit of turning. Not original but will get you going.

[Graham Parker]

Thanks Brian

I will follow up.

Graham

[Graham Parker]

Thx. i will check it out.

Appreciated.

Fred

[Graham Parker]

I agree with many of the previous posts. Myford / Southbend / Boxford – you wont go far wrong. Myfords seem to be the most expensive of these – £500 – £850 seems to be the norm. Boxfords seem to be slightly cheaper and southbend’s cheaper still. I bought a Southbend 3 years ago which had Q/C gearbox, and came with 3 & w jaw chucks, full set of metric and imperial Collets (1/8″ to 1/2″ and 3mm to 13mm), + Q/C tool post for £350 and its been great. A Smart & Brown can also be great value – dont seem to be too sort after – so can go quite cheap – yet they are a serioulsy good machine.

Dripfeed’s recommendation to get a copy of “The Amateurs Lathe”[/i] should not be overlooked – I was lucky enough to server a 4-year engineering apprenticeship whioch covered turning & milling – but I still learnt alot from this book.

Good luck with your searching and enjoy those hours listening to the humm of your lathe 😀

[Graham Parker]

I might have missed something here (and apologies if I’m going down the wrong track), but the original posting mentioned a late 20’s 3-Speeder “with a long undertray”, so I’m assuming that the machine in question is a 3-Speed Super – rather than a 3-Speed Flyer.

The articles that mention clamps all seem to be related to Flyers and not Supers.

I’m far from an expert – but my machine is a 3-Speed Super, and I’ve not seen any other examples of these with Clamps as used on Flyers.

I doubt you’d be able to just use these type of clamps as a solution for a Super, as the rear tray mountings would then be too far back and too high.

I think it would come back to making some “P” shaped mounts to clamp / braize to the existing frame.

Would be interesting to know why they have been removed in the first place. May be its been hacked around as part of a “special” in the past. A pic of the frame might help to clarify things?

[Graham Parker]

Central Wheel Components – Birmingham might be worth a try

https://www.central-wheel.co.uk/

[Graham Parker]

Hi – I’m interested in the Super Casting (Under tray).

Could you email me directly via:
Graham.Parker@CompliantManagement.co.uk

Thanks

[Graham Parker]

Hi Craig

Good to see you riding away 😆 – and not too much smoke either

Re: Tank clamping – as you will have guessed the tank has a straight through tube which goes over the “saddle tube”. If yours is like mine, it has a small bush at the base just to give it a bit of a “cushion” – but that doesn’t do anything wrt turning.

On mine, at the top of the Petrol tank tube are two small lugs, which, as the tank is lowered into place, locate into two slots at the top of the “saddle tube”.

Once the tank is in place, the frame section from the rear wheel to the top of the saddle tube can be installed. This “diaganol” frame section, tank and “saddle tube” are then locked together by a rather large bolt, the top of which you should be able to see quite easily if you look under the saddle.

Assuming yours is like mine, it sounds as if the lugs have warn somewhat.

Hope this helps. If still unsure I have a quite reasonable drawing of the biscuit barrel fuel tank lying around somwhere which may help clarify things.

Regards

G

PS – Richard – I did laugh at your story about taking the doors off with the Spark Plugs still connected – reminded me of Michael Cain in the Italian Job!!!

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