The stand on the left fits in the front engine mount twixt engine and frame. It lifts the front wheel clear of the ground if you want to take the risk!
It would ben mic eto see a photo , Steve.?
???
I love that story, Lewis. I take it you didn’t tell the copper your profession!?
Hi Kev, congratulations on starting your classic bike interest with the best Marque! Its interesting to see the double sided brake front wheel with girders. You have overcome possibly the worst hurdle in separating the head and barrel?. I see there is an earlier pattern crankcase door strap in the picture as well? I think the later engines had doors held with 3 little clamps so maybe you have an earlier engine? all good for your investigative skills.?
I saw somewhere that Silkolene are doing a 2t 40 grade again, bit expensive but cheaper than a rebuild?
Good start, you’ll get there?
Welcome. You’ll be needing some Solvol!
If you have cork inserts I think you need a little bit of oil on them otherwise the clutch will always snatch. If you have modern lined replacements, obviously, they need to be dry
Hi Peter, welcome. I’m afraid your translation is not very clear. Has your bike got Dowty forks and also rear suspension? The dowry forks were fitted after the war with twin brakes on the front wheel. The frames were all rigid rear end.
Hi Colin, just out of interest, are the outer races serviceable? I have just completed the conversion (yesterday) on a 1938 model. The old rollers are fine and may be of use to you.
How about experimenting first by removing 1 plate?
I think that’s a smashing looking bike and you have done a lovely job on it (not that I am any expert on the subject). That rad looks super shiny, is it chrome plated?
My thanks to Martin for posting the fork maintenance tips. I never knew that only one knurled washer was meant to turn, I’ve always set mine so they both turn, which is tricky to say the least! Now I can set them properly?
You’re welcome. Not difficult but a pain in the neck. Of course once the release mechanism is sorted and the clutch adjusted satisfactorily, you’ll hopefully never need to touch it again. Mine had been left for 15 years and was as sweet as a nut then last year I decided to strip the gearbox. Its all good again now though. I drilled the edges of the adjuster nuts and once I am certain the clutch is neither slipping or dragging I run a length of locking wire through them so nothing can adjust itself.