[dave bushell]

Hi Chris.

I didn’t scan the Yowls but I have been scanning some of the brochures and road  tests.

Dave

[dave bushell]

I cut the barrel about one and a half inches from where the barrel reduces to become the tailpipe. When separated, the end section comes away with the perforated tube attached. The other end of the perforated tube has a disk attached (like a bobbin end) that just slides into the silencer barrel and retains the sound absorbing wrapping. If the barrel is cut elsewhere, it may not be possible to wrap the sound absorbing material around the tube properly before inserting into the silencer barrel.  I joined the two parts together using a Jubilee Super Clamp, about £3.50 online. One could sleeve the barrel internally and attach the two parts with self tappers or pop rivets.

 

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[dave bushell]

I had a 1948 Scott sidecar outfit and coming back home from my RAF camp the first weekend of ownership, I was driving through Stratford in London, when, having stopped at traffic lights, I let out the clutch and reversed straight back into a bus!  The ignition was obviously over advanced and if you let the revs drop at tick-over to nearly stalling and then snapped the throttle open, the engine would  run in reverse. I used this trick many times to either entertain or to reverse out of a parking space. A word of warning though:  One day the engine started running on one cylinder, I thought it was an oiled plug but what had happened was the r/h big end screw had come undone allowing the race plate to drop down off the bush and scythe it’s way through the crankcase and blow out a 3″ x 1/2″ section of the case. The lock washer, if there was one, obviously didn’t do it’s job. I still have the crankcase on a shed in the garage 64 years later!

[dave bushell]

T&K Tekaloid Finishing Enamel –  Scott Purple No M15384

or Glasso Fast Purple

or Jolex 1/2 hr  Finish – Violet Tinter made by Joseph Mason & Co. Derby

• This reply was modified 5 years, 11 months ago by dave bushell.

[dave bushell]

We have successfully held two meetings of the London and South East section since the end of lockdown. One last month and one last night. We meet at a pub and have been limited to six people,  sit outside undercover in the pub garden and have our drinks brought to us. Still have to pay for them though!

Dave

[dave bushell]

Certainly the front wheel has no offset. As for the rear, I don’t think it has any offset but I can’t state that as gospel as I can’t access it at the moment to measure.

Dave

[dave bushell]

The reason I suggested head bearings Stan, was because some years ago I was riding my 1938 Prototype Clubman Scott quite fast over a not too smooth a track at a Beaulieu Motor Museum show and the girder forks started juddering quite badly as if they we’re bottoming out, especially when braking. No problems on normal roads. When I got home and checked them out, I found the forks and spring were ok but a fair amount of play had developed in the head bearings. Bearings and cups were replaced and the problem disappeared.

Dave

[dave bushell]

Steering head  bearings ok?

[dave bushell]

Mine came with the cover fitted to the Lucas horn but the horn may not have been the original fitment. Someone, somewhere, sometime……

Dave

[dave bushell]

Unless you’re a rivet counter, it doesn’t matter! Under my original Scott horn cover (which was used as a pattern for the reproduction ones),  I’ve got a Lucas horn. Who can tell the difference?

Dave

[dave bushell]

Obviously the frame lug hole is too large at 3/4″. I think I would make a top hat bush to reduce the lug hole to 1/2″. Your existing dome nut could then tighten down on the larger diameter surface (outer) part of the top hat bush.

Dave

[dave bushell]

Hi Johannes

The “bolt” head is 3/4″ diameter with no spanner flats, relying on flats engaging with the brake anchor slot to prevent it rotating. The threaded portion of the bolt is 11/16″ long and is 1/2″ diameter with a 1/2″ cycle thread. The long shanked domed nut is 1 1/4″ long and 3/4″ diameter on its shank. It also has an undersized head that takes a 7/16″ BSF spanner. The hole in the frame lug is 1/2″ dia. and there shouldn’t be a gap between it and the brake anchor plate. Check your rear wheel alignment.

Dave

 

• This reply was modified 6 years, 4 months ago by dave bushell.

[dave bushell]

Success!

Dave

[dave bushell]

No, it doesn’t!

Dave

[dave bushell]

I see no picture!

Dave

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