[Deleted User]

Darren

My 37 Sunbeam model 9 was done by Sandwelll Stove Enamelers in the old Sunbeamland Works in Wolverhampton (bit like going home really) – 01902 422899.

This will give you an authentic, not concours finish. – If you want gleam and ease of keeping it looking good – go for powder coating – but its just too much on an all black bike- a bit of dullness suits it well.

[Deleted User]

SRM twice.
Before you dismiss powder coating, come and look at my Triumph frame. Done by Triple S who are easily the best powder coaters in the country. I’ve lost your number give me a bell.

[Deleted User]

I have a 49 flyer with incorrect spokes in the rear wheel. I took it to a bloke in Warrington who sorted it out for me and he makes his own spokes. My spokes had been fitted corectly on one side from the hub but on the other side the spoke head did not correspond with the countersunk hole. I’ll measure mine later and get back to you. It’s always a good idea to check the wheel for offset before dismantling. If you have not done this before, there are a lot of variables with spokes, nipples and rim type and you should go to a professional. It cost me £50 to have the rear fitted with new spokes and trued up and the front adjusted. It now looks correct. If you live in the N West I’ll give you his number, originally recommeded by the NW section of the Club

[Deleted User]

Hi Chris,
Many thanks for the reply. Although I have not actually got it yet the prospects are looking better, Ken Lack thinks he has has found one for me. Providing it is the right sort it should alleviate the problem otherwise I will as you suggest try the Brough Owners ( I have already tried the Panther and Norton Owners without success)
Again Chris many thanks for your time and trouble, it really is appreciated.

‘Cheers’
Jeff Meehan

[Deleted User]

Hi All. Just for interest, if you look at John Underhill’s 1913 TT bike with the rotary valve, there is no provision for lubricating the valve. It follows that he must have used petroil. With a racer, you need lubrication to be in relation to the load and speed and petroil delivers this. I use a modern oil at about 50:1 but with drippers to lubricate the synthetic seals I use. I notice one thing though, unlike historic castor based oils that tended to remain on the surfaces, the thinner modern oils tend to drain down into the bottom of the crankcase quite quickly. When you go to start again, the oil rich liquid has a tendency to drown the plug. If you try just draining the wells before you start, I think you will find it starts very much more easily. With petroil, it gets oil as soon as it gets fuel, so it will not suffer. Kind Regards Roger

[Deleted User]

hi mark;
the gerry howard dripper conversion is: a pilgrem pump modified into a dripper, with no moving parts, the beauty of it is, it looks stock and can be
set with the engine not running at all ( with line disconected) it works by gravity, although some crankcase suction occurs and the motor tends to suck oil as it needs it, as far as how many drips per minute, each engine is a little different with a 50 ;1 mix in the tank, my engine works well with one large drip about each 10 seconds ( on each side) very little smoke, a few more drips per minute are ok, as long as you dont over oil, you can judge by the exhaust smoke, and how your engine “picks up” too much oil
and the fuel octane is affected and poor “pick up” and four stoking occur
i would think that 20 drips per minute would be too much, but if your engine is happy, it must be ok!

[Deleted User]

Al and Jan,
6 drips a minute? Is that at idle, I suppose? Seems less than I thought it should be. I have been running Amzoil 100:1 in the gas, with Belray 2 stroke in the oil tank at about 20 drips per minute. I have been too afraid to back it off! I don’t seem to have too much smoke and the plugs look fine.
What is Gerry Howard’s dripper conversion?
Thanks,
Mark

[Deleted User]

Jan,
All I did was email Gill at gill@myddfai.com and he sent the spares list back to me as an excel file. There is a link to his email on the Sources of Supply page.
Mark

[Deleted User]

Roger

The VMCC is always a good start point for newcomers.

I attend the Warks section meetings at Kenilworth RFC every 2nd Weds of the month – there are 3 Scott owners who are active.

The Midalnds VMCC meet every 3rd Weds at the Social club on Damson Lane Solihull – there are 2 active Scott owners usually there.

will keep u posted on other ideas

Neil

[Deleted User]

Hi All

this is a very interesting debate …but I am still willing to progress this project forwards …yes a man of action …not just words!!!

Mmm thinking about Yowl – tha printed would have had to scan in all the text at some stage of the production process- so I will speak to them as a first port of call.

Unless there is a veto put on me I will also get a quote(s) from a commercial firm to scan technicalities – and return within say 2/3 weeks to this Forum/Roger with prices.

Cheers

Neil

PS Once we have the Master CD it can be updated quite easily…..just like any item of Software ie V1/V2 etc

[Deleted User]

To Roger Hulett (and others) How did you download the spares part list, when I push the butten, nothing much happens.
Jan B

[Deleted User]

I have just downloaded the spare parts list from the Spares Scheme. It is excellent. Very well done Gill.
Roger Hulett

[Deleted User]

When this was first mentioned, I offered my services along with others to carry on the excellent work carried out so far. It seems we have a nucleus of good intention with which we could carry out some work on a trial basis.
I have a few CD Roms of manuals for different bikes. On one CD I have the Triumph Manuals collection for different eras. Another I have BMW and one for my modern Hayabusa. They prove very useful. I can print the whole lot out and put them in plastic sleeves that can then go in a ring binder or just print the relevant pages and toddle off to the garage and do my work wothout fear of being left with an oily unreadable manual.
The PDF CD is very useful in that you can search for words or view the contents section and go straight to the information. I have scanned some pages from Yowl and the scanner picks up the print from the other side of the page. When Colin mentioned then converting to text rather than the picture image which the text is at this stage, the background rubbish would disappear upon conversion. My scanner fetches the pictures out OK. If not, are the originals pictures available. Surely for this project, the technical drawings and technical pictures are most relevant rather than a picture of my Grandad on his Scott 50 years ago. The point being that the technical stuff can be scanned from other sources of better quality if necessary
Like most of you I don’t have a lot of spare time, but if others are willing to participate then between us we should be able to compile a few years of info and test out the results before moving on. The existing info that a member has already worked on could be presumably updated in to the same format. The OCR (optical character recognition) software has improved considerably over the last few years and modern computers can cope admirably with the volume of information needed to be processed.
If we all devoted just 2 hours a week each, then I’m certain this could be started.
I used to teach people to use computers and age is not a barrier. Younger people are surrounded by the technology at work but I have come across many gifted people of all ages. Having fond memories of the past and liking history should not preclude you from partaking in progress and most people accept this.
We must however, take all necessary steps to ensure that those without computers are not made to feel left out.
I hope to be of help in this excellent project.

[Deleted User]

Hi Jeff
Sorry but I can’t help you with your rear brake plate.
All the best.
Bob…

[Deleted User]

The latest racing forks are known as USD (upside down forks). It is the stanchion that moves and the slider is static in the yokes. For many years modern (by comarison with most Scotts) have had their stanchions clamped in the forks but over the last 4 or 5 years they have been turned upside down as it reduces unsprung weight.
My previous comment was meant to show that these “great ideas” had been thought of and implemented many years ago, although not necessarily perfected. The “normal” forks where the stanchion is clamped in the yokes are easier to manufacture and seal whilst USD forks always have gravity fighting against them and wanting to leak. The Scott Oleomatic or modern USD fork is technically superior to the regular telescopic fork used generally for the past 40 or so years.
So the upside down comment is not a slur, but a compliment, sorry if I did not make that clear in my first posting.

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